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TXSquirrel

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  1. I am reading this post because my bnr32 is having high IAT issue. During normal driving when ambient temp is below 30C°, my coolant temp would stay between 75C°-80C° as I have Nismo's lower temp thermostat. However the IAT is consistently showing above 50C°. If I'm idling for a while in stop-go traffic, the IAT would creep pass 55C° while coolant still staying below 80C°. Is that normal? Is my factory intercooler not working properly? Or there are other issues at play? I figure it couldn't be the fan or fan clutch because coolant temp reads just fine. Car is still all factory, down to the air box.
  2. Greddy and HPI are both "bolt-on" units, so I assume they would be the same size. But I just read closer and they are not! HPI: 500mm x 270mm x 72mm / Greddy: 600mm x 284mm x 66mm HPI is a whole 10cm shorter? Hmm that's intersting... What is R32's factory size?
  3. Yeah Plazmaman looks to be good quality. However when I say Greddy or HPI costs less for me, it really is only 2/3 of Plazmaman... Shipping is a killer and so is currency exchange...
  4. Is Greddy or HPI intercooler no good? With shipping to the States, they will cost less than Plazmaman for me.
  5. How was your Apexi tuned? Using the hand controller or loading custom tables? I have seen 3 R32 GTRs tuned at the same 18psi, with yours being the 4th, all locally in Texas. And man the results are all over the place...
  6. I have talked to authorized tuners of both Link and Nistune. If you are looking for fail safe functions, go with Link. Link can drop RPM, cut boost, and keep a constant and safe A/F ratio when there is a component failure. Given you have all the extra sensors installed of course, like fuel/oil pressure and wideband controller, plus using Link to drive your boost solenoid.
  7. Finally after three separate shops had looked at the vibration and grinding issue, the conclusion is that my car has a fairly aggressive front LSD. So rather than vibration or grinding, it's actually bad LSD chatter amplified by incorrect differential fluid not allowing any slip. The recommendation is to add limited slip friction modifier, which should be a simple and economical remedy. So I'm going to research a little more on friction modifier and see if that really helps.
  8. So much awesomeness! Now just need to wait for them ute to turn 25 years old, again...
  9. You Aussies have nothing to complain about, you have had Skylines for decades and you have ute! I would love to have an ute as a daily driver with a R32 for weekends.
  10. http://www.nzefi.com/product/r35-gtr-injector-r32-34-gtr-conversion-kit/
  11. Another follow up question. Are R33 and R34 MAFs also 65mm? Upon reading HPI's website a little closer, it says their adapter only fits R33 and R34, no mention of R32.
  12. Okay never mind. R32 MAFs are 65mm and Apexi (and Z32) are 80mm. I want to use all factory piping so this won't work. I will just get the ones from HPI.
  13. So follow up question. How does Z32's compared to R32's? Will it fit without modification?
  14. R35 MAF Adapter for R32 Hi folks, I am looking for a R35 MAF adapter that will bolt onto factory R32 GTR airbox and piping. As far as I know HPI makes a set: http://www.hpi.co.jp/zoom.html?cate=engine&file=airflow_adapter As I was shopping around for the HPI set, I came across an Apexi adapter that is considerably cheaper: http://page12.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p544348772 The listing says this adapter works with Power FC for RB26, but there is no information about physical fitment. Would you folks know if this Apexi adapter can fit in R32's factory location? Thanks in advance!
  15. Yes those Bosch 1000cc injectors are my backup plan. I know they are top quality injectors and good to tune at idle despite their size, but 1000cc just seems overkill for my tiny power goal. R35 owners don't appear to have any voice in their community unless their cars are making +600 kw, so those factory injectors pretty much come right off as soon as owners take delivery. A set of barely used R35 injectors plus adapter kit will cost about half of those Bosch 1000cc.
  16. That is the adapter kit to fit R35 injectors. The bottom of R35 injectors fits right into RB26 head, but the top is different, so those essentially are just CNC'd caps that will fit into factory 10.5mm rail. Pretty much like how Injector Dynamics sell their kits with Bosch cores, except ID charges a ton for a little CNC work. That resistor delete is just a bonus thrown in.
  17. This kit looks interesting.
  18. If those R35 injectors are good enough for Nismo to put into their R-Tune package, then they are definitely good enough for whatever power goal I will have.
  19. R35 factory injectors have excellent spray pattern and they are CHEAP (obviously a relative term), about half price of RB26 specific injectors with only a few thousand or even hundred miles of usage. Only if there is more information on those adapters... Because that picture indeed shows a very stock looking rail...
  20. Nismo R35 Fuel Rail for RB26 Hi folks, I was researching adapter kit to use R35 factory injectors on RB26 and I found this. http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory/original_menu/engine_m/r2/index.html Appears Nismo has made a fuel rail for the RB26 to directly fit R35 factory injectors. However, other than being mentioned as a part of Nismo's complete engine package, I can't find that fuel rail anywhere else, not even a part number. Would you folks know anything about it?
  21. I am not sure EBC solenoid works the same way as a MBC bleeder, but either way I often read that shortening the lines as much as possible would reduce boost spike. So I guess it's fine to place the Profec control solenoid at driver side and just utilize factory metal tubes. I think that makes a cleaner installation than placing solenoid at passenger side and running new vacuum hoses.
  22. Yeah from what I read, there are some exceptions but most people utilize the existing nipple under the plenum. So a follow up question on connecting the Profec control solenoid to wastegate actuators. Is it better to run new hoses to wastegate actuators? Or can I utilize the factory metal tube since it T's off to both actuators? If I use factory metal tube, then I can mount the Profec control solenoid close to plenum and essentially T off the factory (green) hose. I image factory metal tube would flow air better although travel path is longer. If running new hoses to wastegate actuators is the better way to go, then mounting the Profec control solenoid closer to wastegate actuators would be better, correct?
  23. Quick EBC Questions Hi folks, i just pick up a Greddy Profec for my R32 GTR, and I have 2 quick EBC questions. 1) What is a good source for boost pressure (going to Profec's control solenoid)? The manual is showing to use a source between turbos and intercooler. As far as I know there is no existing nipple between turbos and intercooler, but there is one on the underside of intake plenum, which is between intercooler and throttle body. Is this where most of you tap in? Or do you drill and tap a new nipple between turbos and intercooler? 2) Is it okay to unplug and bypass factory boost solenoid, and will it throw any code or affect engine operation? Thanks in advance!
  24. Found a 9 year old post on GTR UK forum - the indicator relay is a black box with a white label on it under the steering column. A picture was provided, but it no longer loads with the post being so old. Which specific relays did you get? I see some fairly cheap LED relays on eBay shaped like factory relay, so supposedly they are plug and play, no wiring needed.
  25. Thank you for the info! My car is still all factory so I am positive the relay is at its original location.
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