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TXSquirrel

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Everything posted by TXSquirrel

  1. TXSquirrel
    If I recall the problem is with the way pins are numbered. There are 7 pins, and the ground pin in RB I believe is the middle #4, but VG is on the end either #1 or #7. Those lost pictures had shown which end is #1 and which end is #7.
  2. TXSquirrel
    On a somewhat related note. Nissan makes an conversion kit for earlier VG30 using the later style igniter that is much cheaper, but the wiring is different from RB. https://frsport.com/Nissan-22020-97E25-Genuine-OEM-Z32-300Zx-VG30DE-TT--Power-Transistor-Unit_p_32087.html I saw some old posts showing pictures on how to re-wire, but the pictures are now gone. Would you folks have more information about the wiring?
  3. TXSquirrel
    I say 300rwhp, which is about 300rwhp more than mine right now...
  4. TXSquirrel
    No harm to try R35 blade type sensors, used genuine ones are cheap on eBay, about $15 USD. Just avoid the new but knockoff ones.
  5. TXSquirrel
    I understand what you are talking about, and I am absolutely fully aware of that. Piggaz posted a table, djvoodoo had a question about a number in that table, I answered how that number is meant to be x2, then I provided an example from Garrett because that is also how Garrett markets their products. So that's about it. And I doubt anyone who is actually viewing this board would take those marketing materials as absolute, this audience is better than that.
  6. TXSquirrel
    Those questions are for Garrett corporate since that is what they publish on their website.
  7. TXSquirrel
    I left the factory manifolds as they are. But I'm still really struggling if I made the right decision... How much of a top end loss should I expect without port matching? And how much of a lag should I expect if I do? Engine is still out waiting to get intake plenum back from powder coating, so there is still a chance to reverse course!
  8. TXSquirrel
    Those output ratings are per turbo at the crank, so if running twin then x2. Like Garrett rates the -7s at 250ps and -5s at 310ps.
  9. TXSquirrel
    Just intake cam gear or both intake and exhaust cam gears? And at what degree would you suggest? Port matching is also being considered, as I'm curious if the exhaust air exits manifold into turbine housing would result in turbulence because of the different size. Yeah I believe pods would give performance gain across range, but they are just a bit unsightly for me. I did get the HKS panel filter though, unnecessary expensive for a flat piece of sponge. lol
  10. TXSquirrel
    Are you also running Garrett -9s? If so, at what psi/bar are you running, and at what rpm does it reach full boost?
  11. TXSquirrel
    Opinions for Porting Factory Manifolds to Support Garrett -9s My engine is out and while it's out, I'm pondering how much to port the factory exhaust manifolds. I want good responding characteristics and reliability, and I don't care for top end output. So I get the Garrett -9s and pair them with Tomei Poncam Type A and Tomei dumps. My factory exhaust ports measured at 38mm x 41mm, and I know OEM N1s are 38mm x 47mm. I am thinking just 2mm and make them 38mm x 43mm, so it doesn't lag too much at the low end. I know this is perhaps unnecessary minutia, but I still appreciate your opinions!
  12. TXSquirrel
    Factory height GTR, that has to be rarer than any Nur edition!
  13. TXSquirrel
    A quick update. The vibration and grinding issue has been fixed, and the problem was indeed with the front LSD. Initially I had the front LSD drained and filled with Redline Heavy Shockproof, and it just made the issue worse. So I contact Redline (which by the way has excellent customer service,) and they recommend adding some of their own brand of LSD friction modifier. To my surprise it works like magic, and I very much enjoy driving my car again.
  14. TXSquirrel
    Yes mine is still working well with no leaks after a year and half. That's a great DIY video you posted. Brings back all the memory I had when I was trying to figure out how to fix that darn ABS, since most people just told me to do an ABS delete. When I did the write up, I found it difficult to explain how to swap harness and uprights. But once both R32 and Z32 ABS units are put side by side, everyone will see the swap can only happen one way. I'm glad you got yours to work as I did with mine!
  15. TXSquirrel
    WOW I just see that car in the for sale section. Absolutely incredible car! Just out of curiosity, the tire and fender gap seems big, are those tires smaller than factory spec or stock R34 GTR really rides that high?
  16. TXSquirrel
    Will this not work? https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-s-tune-lm-x5-mm-8-wheels-17mm-21mm-hexagonal-adapter.html
  17. TXSquirrel
    Thank you very much! All the links are super helpful! Looks like prices for all R34 GTRs have gone nutters in all corners of the world.
  18. TXSquirrel
    R34 GTR Market Prices in Australia When it comes to R34 GTRs, what is the current market price in Australia? And what should be the expected price hikes for all the different "specs" and Nur? How about cars with built motors, like Tomei or Nismo S1/R1?
  19. TXSquirrel
    I got a good chuckle out of that! By pump gas we meant a car was running on petrol from a typical petrol station without fuel additive or adding higher octane gasoline. Since many dyno facilities have much higher octane gasoline ready on site to boost / inflate dyno numbers, typically stored in large jerrycans. So his petrol came from a "pump" station, as opposed to this: And octane number 93 was just referring to the slightly better "pump gas" we can get here, because in some areas 91 is the highest octane available, most notably California. Going back to my previous response, I think OP's tune was very likely done on Apexi's hand held controller due to the limited support we get here. Even so, I did encounter another R32 running on upgraded GTX Garrett twins with Bosch 1000cc and Link ECU only made 350awhp on 18psi, or 260awkw on 1.24bar.
  20. TXSquirrel
    Cold side of the intercooler is a much more logical location to mount an IAT sensor, glad Nissan improved it on R34. Like many here suggested, the default mounting location in a R32 just makes the IAT sensor soak up engine bay heat, and the reading I took confirms it. My O2 sensors have been replaced with brand new OEM as well. I had a shop take O2 readings using Nissan Data Scan and they were within range as specified by FSM. Which is very odd because plugs do look a bit dark and so does tail pipe. My guess is the factory fuel injectors are due for retirement after 27 years. I think all guys know leakage is hard to control after seeing some age LOL. There is one issue that puzzles me. The factory boost restrictor was removed, but I can't hit more than 12psi. For reference base timing was dialed back to 18 because I was getting some audible knock.
  21. TXSquirrel
    For your entertainment, this is what I'm seeing after a 20 minute drive. Temperature is measured by a laser thermometer. Greddy Infometer Aiming at plenum about 3 cm to the left of IAT port Aiming directly at the brass hex nut on IAT sensor
  22. TXSquirrel
    I plan to get Nistune installed in the next month or two. Since Nistune pretty much just piggybacks off factory ECU, it will not use the IAT signal as a part of its open loop calculation correct? Because I know NZEFI sells a Bosch made fast response IAT sensor that is recommended for running MAP based ECU, I'm curious if that will be needed or helpful for running Nistune.
  23. TXSquirrel
    Everything is stock in the engine bay and so is the ECU. The IAT sensor is still at its factory location on intake plenum, at the kink before first throttle body. Infometer is pretty much a plug-n-play off factory consult port, only the AFM and O2 voltage can be adjusted/calibrated. I have swapped around the sensors a couple times with the factory radiator one and a 2nd new OEM one (yeah I bought another one just to be triple sure ), same result... At least car doesn't drive like shit, I think... well, this is the only bnr32 I have ever driven... So I do hope Infometer is showing false readings, because I don't want to drop $650 USD for a new intercooler when the factory unit is working fine.
  24. TXSquirrel
    I wrote in Celsius for ease of reading. The Greddy Infometer can show in both °C and °F anyway.
  25. TXSquirrel
    The IAT sensor currently in the car is a brand new Nissan OEM. My first thought was a bad sensor so I bought a new one, but reading is the same. The new sensor looks completely different tho, it's a much thinner rod and the plug is blue instead of yellow. To make sure I got the correct part I even tested both new and old sensors in hot water to see if the ohm readings are in range, which is probably what I should have done before I went and bought a new one... I also notice my car smells quite rich, but I'm not sure if it's because I have a straight pipe or the ECU is compensating for high IAT readings. However as far as I can tell the lambda readings off the factory narrow band are normal. Unless the Greddy Infometer I'm using is getting every reading wrong...?
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