TXSquirrel

Oh didn't know that... I thought it could just come out off the top... Now I finally realize what you mean by bonded rubber, which I kept thinking was that dust boot the whole time.

That was the behind the scene clip. Here is the original edited version, where he thought the shifter is comparable to Audi R8. I was going to replace worn OEM parts until I saw that RCR video. I already have the OEM nylon bushing, the nylon locking ring, and bonded rubber in my shopping cart ready to checkout. Yeah I do want one, for me it's about ~$150 USD shipped versus replacement OEM parts for $16 USD shipped. Now thinking about it, I want to get both and do a comparison.

Thanks for the feedback, Charles! This guy's reaction to the Nismo shifter seems genuine, would you folks know if that's the short shifter or quick shifter?

Yes at first I was looking to replace 32861-05U00, 32875-V5002, and 32862-05U00. Then I saw the Nismo "solid" short shifter and thinking, oh this shifter must comes with stiffer bushing and rubber because this is their product description: "By hardening the inner rubber of a standard shift lever, the amount of deflection is decreased. ... This changes the rather soft touch of a standard car to a much more precise, fast feeling." I don't know if that's just marketing BS, that's why I post here asking about it. Sounds like it is purely marketing BS if they only use stock bushing.

That is how I understand as well, the "short" shifter has the same leverage point as stock but comes with stiffer rubber, which I hope will help with shifting feel. The "quick" shifter as you mentioned actually has different fulcrum. I don't know how well this quick shifter is designed, but quick shifters I have experienced in other cars in the past would require more effort to move the stick than I prefer, some to the point of distracting (Mustang GT).

What are you folks' thoughts on the Nismo Short Shifter? My R32's stock shifter is getting loose due to age, is this Nismo short shifter worth the extra investment or should I just replace stock bushing/rubber? https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-solid-short-shifter-r32-r33-r34-wgnc34.html

You pick the wrong boot to break lol. I believe inner boot is shared by a bunch of Nissan or Infiniti models, less so for outer boot. But you can still find them everywhere: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-C9BDA-05U8H-OEM-CV-Boot-Repair-Kit-Front-Outer-RB26DETT-R32-R33-Skyline/202543719660

Not having fan shroud on there with your new Mishimoto can be an issue, and that could be why it overheated at lights - the fan not pulling enough air through radiator. I think the shrouds are the last piece of puzzle, you should get good cooling improvement if you can somehow fit them back on... (I am surprised though because with my 48mm Koyo both upper and lower stock shrouds fit.) How are your plugs looking? Just want to know if it's running lean... Also do you have a picture of your engine bay?

I image a relocation kit for Z32 should work because oil filter is the same size. Most kits out there offer only the oil filter adapters, and you will have to run your own oil lines. I think you can even find oil filter adapters at local parts store and make your own kit, as long as the thread size is correct. https://www.kseriesparts.com/BLO-BXGA-00115-PO.html https://conceptzperformance.com/bde-remote-oil-filter-block-adapter-relocation-kit-nissan-300zx-z32-bde-rofr_p_34184.php

Hmmm sounds like you have all the basic maintenance covered. I am sure you have checked them, but your fan, fan blades, and fan shrouds are all in good shape? And you already replaced your water pump right? I notice your oil pressure is looking a bit low, but that could be because your oil was running so hot and viscosity decreased. Mine sits at ~4 during idle. Hopefully other can chime in on this, and hopefully that's not a sign for a bad oil pump. (However, oil pressure sender is known to go bad, could be as simple as that.) As for the radiator hoses, the lower hose is supposed to be cooler than upper hose. (I have a laser thermometer that I can measure the delta next time I take my car out.) But are you talking about a big temperature difference between the upper and lower or the lower not warm at all? If so then I am drawing a blank since you already flush your radiator... Like you said, maybe try another thermostat. It's been around 85°F here and a healthy factory radiator should be able to cope with that.

I don't think I have seen my oil temp gauge gone up that high since I have owned mine, even after multiple pulls on the dyno. I highly recommend a thorough coolant flush and a proper bleed (there is small bleed valve on the head near fuel rail). Maybe throw in an oil change too, it's cheap insurance. Yes as far as I know the condenser fan is only trigger by A/C. You can wire it to run from a toggle switch to help cooling, but that still won't solve your core issue, plus your electric system doesn't appear to be 100%. I Google a little more and the fan clutch I posted above is from Infiniti Q45, so feel free give that a try since it's only a $50 part from any local part store. As for your electrical issue, other than sorting out the grounds, a new alternator is definitely helpful. Circuit Sports offer a new direct OE replacement and they are reasonably priced.

If you are in Texas, may consider getting a new radiator if you are still running on factory one. Both Koyo and Mishimoto offer reasonably priced replacements. As for the fan clutch, if I recall Infiniti Q45's can work but not exact. There was an discussion about interchangeability on Rivsu's old forum before they went out of business. From what I can remember, almost all the late 80s and early 90s Nissan clutch fans share the same bolt pattern but vary a few mm in height, and unfortunately there is not one with the exact height as R32. Edit: Here is an old picture I found, not exactly sure which car this came from, could be a Z32. So the unknown new fan clutch is the exact same height as R32, but somehow the base is 2mm thicker and so the nuts could not be tightened through all the threads.

Hopefully this diagram can help you. From what I can decipher, both right and left mirror motors share the same power source, and so does rear wiper motor. So if left mirror and rear wiper both work, I am going to guess it's the left/right switch not making good contact. Just see if you can take it apart and clean the brass contact plates inside, sometimes gunk would build up on those contact points. If that's clean and you are getting voltage there, then possibly the motors are gone. But I think that's less unlikely because it appears to have 2 motors on each mirror, and chances are low to have both motors go bad together.

Credit to my tuner for sure. I told him I didn't know if this Plazmaman would improve anything for my low power goal, he said just pay for the intercooler installation and a re-tune, and he would give me free before and after pulls. It was interesting to find out he couldn't push any further than ~18.5psi on factory intercooler. Also interesting to see the thicker Plazmaman gained across RPM range, "sort of" debunked the myth that bigger intercoolers would get more pressure drop and hence feel laggy. I say sort of because Plazmaman isn't that much bigger than factory. One last note is that I'm using the somewhat idiotic Greddy Profec, and to get that last tune to hold the -9s at ~19.5psi, my tuner had to turn the Gain way up. He also pulled to only about 7000rpm at my request, because I'm still on near 30 years old head gasket and head bolts. He noted since the curve was still trending up, likely there was more power to gain up to 8000rpm.

Not sure Tein has a series called Superstreet, but they do have Street Advance Z. https://www.tein.co.jp/srch/pricelist_e_fromtekigo.php?maker=NISSAN&carmodel=SKYLINE&chassis=BNR32&skg=P74&gno=1

Just realize I was thinking ambient temperature. 60°F delta should be ~33°C...

Are you measuring between fuel pump positive and chassis ground or fuel pump positive and fuel pump negative? Voltage at the pump's negative is controlled by the fuel pump control module, so it varies. Something like 12v for initial 5 seconds after turning ignition to on, then down to 6v, then up to 12v during cranking, then down to 6v at idle. Edit: Run a direct ground for the pump is a good way to verify.

Check your voltage at the relay. If all is good there, then check voltage at your fuel pump control module.

Finally got around to test 76mm Plazmaman against factory R32 intercooler, which is still a very decent unit given its age, the measured delta between inlet and outlet under load was close to 60°F / 15.5°C. Forgot to take delta measurement after Plazmaman was installed though... I think my tuner may have found factory intercooler's limit. With -9s the most my tuner could get was 440rwhp / 328rwkw at ~18 psi. Without touching the tune or changing anything except installing Plazmaman, it gained 10rwhp. Playing with the tune a little more, it gained another 1psi and pushed to 466.5rwhp / 348rwkw. At this point my R35 570cc injectors maxed out, exactly as I planned. The R35 MAFs were a surprise, I thought they would maxed out as well since I only put them in factory sized 65mm tubes, but they were at 4.6v and still got room to go. So folks, there you go.

You can sell your N1 headlights on eBay and get decent money back to fund these LED ones. Personally I like the factory headlights because they are made of real glass and won't oxidize. I recently bought a factory projector assembly and I think I know why it is so awful. The assembly is ~189mm long overall with a ~31mm thick lens. I will throw a few different modern lens on it and see if that improves anything...

This just came out in late January, so I don't expect anyone to have actually tried it. But what are your first impressions? http://www.78-works.jp/shopdetail/000000000171/001/X/page1/recommend/

This drawing should be pinned.

When my tuner first noted the fuel pressure issue, he already suggested bypassing the FPCM or installing an Aeromotive fuel pump controller. He did that for all the cars with aftermarket pump. I am just trying to keep my car as close to factory and use Nissan parts whenever I can, so it's just me with my way. That's why I'm running R35 injectors, which are still more than what the -9s can put out anyway. After looking at the diagram more, I'm guessing this 12v source actually runs through the ignition switch. So if I can get a confirmation that will be great. Nissan did that with headlight harness, not a real surprise if 30 years ago Nissan decided to run fuel pump 12v through ignition switch.

I finally got around to diagnose this issue in detail, and I am not sure what to make of what I discover. The FPCM is working fine, doing its thing by increasing voltage as engine load increases. The problem is with 12v source for the pump. I first measured the voltage at pump relay, and I was only getting 10.5v ignition on and 11.7v at idle, about 2v below battery voltage. Then I measured at the fuse, same issue. I tried the fuses next to pump, which are various lights, no problem at all, 12.5v with engine off and close to 14v with engine on. So what happened between power source and the fuse harness? How was it wired, straight off battery? Look at the electrical diagram it's not too clear to me. Looks like the EGT sensor is tee'd off the same source...?

Side question. Anyone knows what is the width and offset of the RS05RR wheels on Motive Garage's car?