TXSquirrel

Maybe someone else can try MTL out and report back.

I rarely shift at above 7000 rpm, but so far I feel MTL shifts slightly quicker than MT-90. That could all just be in my head though as knowing beforehand MTL is rated at 75W-80 and MT-90 is rated at 75W-90.

I had MT-90 before but running MTL now. I prefer MTL, seems to suit better with the warmer and more humid climate I am located.

Just get Enkei RPF1 17x9 +22. Cheap, light, fair quality, decent look.

ATS also offers carbon twin plate at a lower price, at 500rwhp you don't have to get their triple plate.

You were recommending jacking up from the sills, which really is no better from the rails for a R32 because of the gap left by Nissan from factory. R33/R34 sills would be damaged if one does something stupid, normal usage would be fine, which is not the case for R32. Even normal usage with scissor jack as you recommended would still crush it. Every R32 sills are in worse shape than the rails, so unless the gap is rectified, don't touch either sills or rails and just jack from the center subframe, preferably with a block of wood as well.

I believe the front piece of rail is still in production, but you may want to double check with the vendor. Right side: 75110-05U30 Left side: 75111-05U30 And if anyone wonders why every R32 front sills are crushed and not R33/R34, Garage Yoshida has a good example to show: http://blog.garage-yoshida.net/archives/1926

Yeah digital G sensor should be maintenance free. Previous owner just saved you $400. Your issue is mechanical then. I was thinking, however, if the transfer case was slipping, why would it buck the car? Because the rear wheels are still pushing, just the power not transmitted to the front. So I would say do a quick check on the front diff. also, just make sure there is enough fluid and also the right fluid.

Your issue may also lie in the sensory side and not mechanical side. What's the condition of your G-sensor? Can you find another one nearby to test?

Wow you ran 6 with 1.1? I think that's a bit much even at 15psi... I'm surprised you're not getting knocks... I would have suggested at least 7 if you are running 1.1, but preferably 0.9.

I am having a weird sound coming from the back post shutdown as well. It sounds a little different from both the fuel pump and attesa pump, and it could be described as fog horn. I notice it usually happens after I drive extensively. But a couple weeks ago when the weather got pass 100°F and I was out in the front yard, I heard the sound just came on for no reason, even though car has been sitting in the garage for over a week. Then I heard it again last week, also when weather was very hot and car hasn't been moved for some time. I am still trying to figure out what it is, but it's impossible to replicate as it just comes on randomly when (I presume) weather is hot. My friend thinks it's because the fuel tank evap line is clogged and the noise is from fuel pump, but I'm not sure how likely that is with car just sitting there untouched.

Is it a mechanical whirring sound you are hearing post shutdown? Like some kind of pump running?

Greddy Profec is a duty cycle based EBC and not pressure based. Maybe you can look into that instead.

I would image if your accumulator needs replacing, it's already pretty low on pressure. Hopefully this write up helps. https://www.gtrusablog.com/2020/02/how-to-remove-and-replace-attesa.html

Would be nice to get the bracket in different thickness too, so it can close the gap between projector and factory bezel.

Not sure why Lightwerkz didn't list it anymore, but they used to let you select D2S or G5 projector to go with their R32 bracket. G5 is cheaper and has identical dimensions to D2S, except the housing isn't painted black. D2S has a more centralized hot spot and G5 is more spread out, you can check it out on their comparison videos. https://www.youtube.com/c/LightwerkzGlobal/search?query=g5

Ahh I see. Yeah at that price point it's going to be at the very bottom of my wish list. Does it only work with Motec ECU or it can be wired to Nissan consult?

Full digital dash for 32? Why didn't I know such thing exists? Who makes it?

Just curious, has anyone tried 245/40/18 on 9.5? I prefer taller sidewall because of how bad the roads are in my area.

A little too late my friend, you will be paying way too much for everything during the life of owning this car like the rest of us!

Did you ask on EVO forum? What did they say?

Haha yeah there are so many fake R35 injectors out there. However R35 guys junk them pretty much as soon as they take delivery of their cars, so just contact a shop that works on R35 and they probably have a pile just sitting and collecting dust. I got mine for $70 USD, plus I paid another $110 USD to have them cleaned and flow tested, not bad for a set of barely used quality OEM injectors. Also 570cc is the flow rate at 3 bar, but they are actually designed to run at higher base pressure, so there is still more potential if needed.

If you want to stay true to Nismo/OEM and want modernized injectors, just get R35 OEM injectors. 570cc and very good atomization.

But this is Hong Kong, so in 2 years it will end up just like another car in one of these garages.

Spray some WD-40 and call it good.