TXSquirrel

Thanks! I got lucky, my car was an unmolested one owner car in Japan for 24 years, which is rare by R32 standards. I am just trying to find the turn indicator relay. Bought some Sylvania Zevo LEDs, but I don't want to splice in resistors.

What are these relays? R32 GTR Hi folks, can you please tell me what are these 4 blue relays next to the interior fuse box? This is off my 1990 R32 GTR.

Still haven't bled the system, but a new symptom just occur. Took my car out for 20 minutes around neighborhood, kept under 4k rpm and under 5 psi, only a short cruise. Drove back into garage and turned ignition off, then I heard a fairly loud electric hum in the trunk area that kept on for another 5 seconds, after engine already off. Could that be the electric pump or solenoid for transfer case? It definitely didn't sound like fuel pump.

I look at this issue like pinching a water hose. When a water hose is pinched, there is more pressure, hence a higher velocity water flow, eg. restricted manifolds. When a water hose is relaxed, there is less pressure, but water flows with lower velocity, eg. ported manifolds. So there is always a catch, and then the question is, which scenario spins the water wheel faster...?

So here is my take away. Aftermarket dumps will not make much of a difference if I am targeting, let's say 320rwkw. However, I can get more power at mid range and perhaps reach 320rwkw earlier because they do flow exhaust air better. I can live with that. But then here is my speculation. If I also get manifolds ported, they may create an early lag that offsets any early gain from aftermarket dumps. My reason is a more restricted manifold exit creates more back pressure but also higher velocity air flow, which can churn turbines faster...? But then how about the air turbulence created by mismatched port sizes between a manifold outlet and its turbine inlet...?

My goal is only to break 300kw with -9's, so I never considered aftermarket dumps. But since my engine will be pulled, I am feeling a bit of "may as well..." For a low power goal like mine, will aftermarket dumps make any difference? How about ported manifolds? Does that really create lag at the low end like OP suggested?

Hi RBN1, I also have a pair of -9's ready to go in along with Tomei cam gears. However, I am undecided on Tomei dumps, do you know if they help with high end or low end power? Do you know what was your injector duty cycle when putting down 336rwkw?

Got it. Thank you for the recommendation! I will bring my car to a shop to get that done. I never suspected any issue with hydraulic lines because the reservoir is still at full mark and there isn't any leak. But I will definitely try all the simpler tests/fixes before taking apart transfer case or front diff.

Thanks for the tip! Do both bleeding points have to be done, or are they connected and can get away with doing only the easier one on transfer case?

I look through service manual and this is what I find. The input shaft of transfer case is permanently driven by the gearbox through a chain. The clutch pack within however deactivates when 4WD fuse is pulled, because the ETS motor becomes inactive and therefore no hydraulic pressure. So with the fuse off there is no load on either transfer case or front diff., so the problem could still come from either component. By the way my 4WD warning lamp is not on, and it's not because of a burnt bulb because it lights up when ignition is on. That tells me most of the sensory components are working, speed sensors or G-sensors and what not. What that doesn't tell me is if the relays are working, but I don't know where they are located. So can you folks please kindly point to me where are the ETS motor and ETS actuator relays?

Sounds like your situation is slightly better. Mine happens at all times, basically every time I do a low speed turn. No issue at higher speed. Really baffling... Have you tried changing the fluid? Perhaps putting correct viscosity fluid will help if it's temperature sensitive.

No I haven't had a chance. I got really busy with both work and family and haven't touched my car for over a month... Actually your comment just gave me one more link in the chain to worry about. Have you tried plugging back factory ECU? Or pulling the AWD fuse? Do you know if there is a relay that controls the Attesa system? Both gearbox and transfer case are close to exhaust. The smoke could be fluid leaking onto exhaust.

Okay I can't confirm yet, but that metal clank noise was likely from brakes. I backed my car out to driveway to wash it, then immediately parked it back inside garage and it just sat. With the climate here it's likely brake components stuck together, perhaps even with slight rust.

New development. Car parked in garage untouched for about a week. Tried to drive it and the car wouldn't move, one of the driveline component appeared to be stuck. Gave some more throttle and went a loud metal clank, coming from either under the car or toward the back. Car started to move again. Drove 15 miles around town and didn't notice anything in addition to the existing grinding / vibration coming from the front. I didn't think it was the front diff. because the issues went away when I pull the AWD fuse. That tells me mechanically the front diff. is not binding. When I'm traveling more than 5mph/8kmh also no issue. A component is triggering this issue, and a sticky component that is.

Symptoms of bad transfer case? Hi folks, I have a R32 GTR with engine and all drivelines factory stock with 135k km. Can you please let me know what are the typical symptoms of transfer case going bad? A lot of grinding noise and vibration comes from the front half of the car, but only at very low speed and when steering is turned. The vibration can be felt through steering wheel, and the noise can be heard even with windows up. At times it feels like the inner wheel is skipping, like LSD is engaging, but obviously the front is an open diff. So I pulled the AWD fuse and all the problems went away. Put the fuse back in and it starts to grind and vibrate again. Recently all 4 driveline components had fluids changed, nothing improved. This happens also going in reverse, actually it's worse when reversing. When reversing with steering in full lock, the grind and resistance got so bad that the car had trouble moving. Thanks in advance for any inputs!

Thanks a ton for the information, I got really worried for a while, phew! I don't believe I have active aero's, so Fuse #2 is likely unused. And I have a standard R32 GTR, so Fuse #3 should be unused. Mystery solved, I can go driving again!

R32 GTR Fuse Question Hello folks, would you know what these two fuses do, "electronic parts" and "transmission control?" My R32 GTR arrived a year and half ago with those 2 fuses missing. I have always driven my car without them and I just now notice they are missing. Have I damaged my car in anyway driving without them? Thanks in advance for your inputs!

See if you can get in touch with "themadscientist." He put a set in his build, not sure if his build is finished because he hasn't posted any update for a while. At least his post is very entertaining to read. http://forums.nicoclub.com/mad-s-gt-r-overhaul-itt-mad-buys-back-karma-points-t607960.html

What is the thickness of factory radiator? Mishimoto is only 32mm so it should have fewer clearance issues, and 10% cheaper than Koyo here. They also have great lifetime warranty that even covers collision.

Anyone tried Mishimoto radiator? They look to be slightly thinner than Koyo.

Wow 300kw? I was thinking I would be really happy with 260-270kw. So yeah about injectors. I wanted to get Deatschwerks at first, but the tuner I spoke with told me they banned Deatschwerks because their failure rate is so high. Then I asked the tuner if he has worked with any injector that never failed and he told me to get ID, which not only has good quality but also best to tune because it has a very "crisp" (his word not mine) spray pattern. But holy cow they are expensive! And strangely priced because ID725, ID850, and ID1000 all cost the same at $720 USD plus shipping, or $800 USD plus shipping with adaptors!

I plan to do this in phases. I want to get Garrett's 15.5 psi actuator and I want to know if I can run 15.5 psi with factory injector. If not I will try another actuator because I need to run this setup for a while before I can collect all the parts for next phase. Next phase will obviously include larger injectors, but problem is all the other support mods. I will need ARP head studs, a better clutch, a proper boost controller, and switch to MAP sensor. So yeah the injectors are 'only' about $750, all the other parts needed to make them injectors worthwhile will cost another $1800.

I realize this is a very general question, but how many psi can I run on -9's with factory injector? Let's say at a safe 85% duty cycle. My only current mods are Nismo fuel pump and Reimax exhaust system; 60mm front pipe, no cat, and 80mm cat back. Plan to get Nistune, Tomei dump, and have factory manifold ported to match -9's.

Yes they do front housing as well. The R33 guy I chat with told me he just called them up and they fit front housing on the -5's for him. I didn't ask him how much though. I contacted another vendor about fitting GTX on -9's, here is their response. I don't full understand and maybe you folks can explain better. Garrett haven’t released -9's in a GTX version, the GTX turbochargers all require surge slotting in the compressor housing due to the efficiency of the compressor wheel. As the Garrett bolt on compressor housings are quite compact, there is no room to surge slot these to retain their bolt on adaptability. We have done a few GTX wheels into factory housings, but they are more suited for high end vehicles, as we fit 0.85a/r turbine housings to them, as opposed to the factory 0.64a/r (free up the back pressure to try to eliminate some/majority of the surging). A large blow off valve also helps eliminate this issue.

ATP probably has one of the worst websites to navigate... Go to GTX section of the website first, then click on the size of 'GTX w/o turbine' you want and you can find additional options. Here is the link for -5/-10 housing, you have to scroll all the way to the bottom and the last option available is to add .64 a/r T25 -5/-10 housing for $225.42 USD. http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-188&Category_Code=GTX