Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good evening guys, 

So I’m in the middle of a stereo install on my 95 GTS25T and I’m running into a pretty big issue. I’ve got the wiring figured out and everything works (after removing the supplied RCA outputs for the speakers), but I’m running into problems getting the head unit to fit the dash panel. Also, my “universal Nissan” dash kit proved to be all but useless. Also, the Pioneer’s supplied trim ring won’t fit inside the dash panel. Originally, the car had a double din Carrozzeria with GPS and all that jazz, but my new head unit is a single din Pioneer. I’ve read that the N15 Pulsar din pocket will work, but that shit is hard to come by in the US. Anyone have any ideas how to fill the space? 
PS, pardon the rats nest of wiring inside the dash; this is still in the test fit stage. Once everything is fitted well, I’ll clean up the wiring. 
 

AB5B26FB-D5B7-4CD7-AEAF-69E116219CF1.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481053-r33-s1-stereo-surround-us/
Share on other sites

Get a DIN pocket like Plynx said and don't use the cage that comes with the HU. Afaik the head unit on mine sticks out a little also but thats to accomodate the bezel that goes around it. You may have to grind some of the edges down for it to fit flush, i had to with mine.

Edited by trel
Spell check
1 hour ago, trel said:

Get a DIN pocket like Plynx said and don't use the cage that comes with the HU. Afaik the head unit on mine sticks out a little also but thats to accomodate the bezel that goes around it. You may have to grind some of the edges down for it to fit flush, i had to with mine.

Right after I posted this thread, I remembered the guy at the JDM dealer mentioning a site called Terra Firma. I went and checked it out and found this little number here. I also read about people drilling new holes in the mounting brackets. I’ll get a closer look at it after work. 
Thanks for the insight, guys. 

12F2EDAA-D539-485A-A052-5ECD73889F4C.png

Edited by LiteraCola
15 minutes ago, Robzilla32 said:

Are you sure that it doesn't have a sleeve with bezel that you remove to fit in the narrower frame in tbe Skyline console?

Que?

The head unit came with the metal DIN sleeve that didn't fit inside the OEM brackets so I ditched it. I screwed the brackets directly into the head unit and it fit tightly. I will probably drill some new holes in the brackets to set the head unit back into the dash a little further; right now it sits about 1/2" out past the HVAC controls. I guess I'll get all the wiring cleaned up and secured and then wait to button it all up until my DIN pocket comes in... then I'll make all the final adjustments. 

In the beginning, I had an issue with the head unit volume. I followed all of Crutchfield's directions to the T, but when I turned on the stereo, the volume was extremely low. After some research, I found that the RCA cables (came pre-wired into the adapter harness) were the problem. The main speaker wires were meant to be unused. I cut off the RCA cables, soldered in the speaker wires and all is right with the world. Just waiting on one more set of 6.5s and my stereo project will be complete. Damn COVID, everything is back-ordered. 

Just figured I’d let everyone know that I’ve found closure with this project haha. Got all the wiring cleaned up, removed the rats nest from the previous owners DIY LED lighting and phone chargers under the dash and bolted everything up with my new OEM DIN pocket. The new 6.5” Kickers sound excellent! 
 

Methinks it’s time to vinyl wrap the dash trim.... 

 

F72F1671-D755-436A-9815-6FEC2BAC1B13.jpeg

Noooooo . . . . Dont vinyl wrap the dash fascia !

Do it properly.

Take off the dash fascia and strip off all the vents, switches, buttons etc etc.

Take a scouring pad and scrub off the factory spray on vinyl.

This is a bastard of a time consuming job to get it all off from all nooks and crannies but worth the effort.

Sand everything smooth with a fine wet and dry sand paper.

Get a small can of clear plastic primer to coat it and then get a can of matt or satin black enamel and paint it.( I used engine paint for a super hard finish)

I gave mine one coat and then a second coat holding the spray can back further than normal to give it a coarse, very fine sand blasted effect.

Worth the effort in the end 

On 9/6/2020 at 5:54 PM, PLYNX said:

Noooooo . . . . Dont vinyl wrap the dash fascia !

Do it properly.

Take off the dash fascia and strip off all the vents, switches, buttons etc etc.

Take a scouring pad and scrub off the factory spray on vinyl.

This is a bastard of a time consuming job to get it all off from all nooks and crannies but worth the effort.

Sand everything smooth with a fine wet and dry sand paper.

Get a small can of clear plastic primer to coat it and then get a can of matt or satin black enamel and paint it.( I used engine paint for a super hard finish)

I gave mine one coat and then a second coat holding the spray can back further than normal to give it a coarse, very fine sand blasted effect.

Worth the effort in the end 

Got some photos of the finished product? I'm not completely sold on the vinyl wrap, but I will admit that I would like a subtle carbon fiber pattern. Nothing too flashy. I'd like the same pattern on the gearshift surround and the door window/lock trim. Right now, the gearshift surround and window switch trim are a glossy gunmetal color while the dash surround is... well, you can see. Shitty is what it is haha!

Edited by LiteraCola

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...