Smart Key Warning Light Issue

[Scotterjay]

I didn't know a specific scan tool was required, that makes sense as to why various people couldnt get the data off it now. 

Yes I am in Sydney, do you know anyone here? 

[The Max]

Not so much that a specific scan tool is needed, because the diagnostic protocol is industry standard. My argument is that the Nissan one gets straight into the meat and potatoes of it, especially since the software can diagnose JDM vehicles as well, and provide the clear definition of those diagnostic codes in Nissan-speak.

Some aftermarket scan tools have a limited range of vehicles in their database for directly translating the diagnostic codes to something in relative English, so they can give you a rough idea of what that affected device is but maybe not necessarily provide every finite detail to describe it.

I'm just thinking that two out of two dudes with aftermarket scan tools were pretty much bugger all help to you.

I'll talk to you in private. I may not necessarily solve your problem but we can at least drill down to what the culprit is likely to be.

[The Max]

So for the benefit of any keen readers here, this is what we've found so far:

1. Battery is not really doing a great job at retaining charge. Fresh off a three hour charge or so, we saw only 12.1V and declining at a relatively brisk rate.
2. Quick in-circuit current test showed a draw of around 200mA upon initial connect and then around half that soon after.
3. Consult III+ software was showing 11.8V at the OBD port, while the battery was still measuring in slightly above 12.0V. After a few minutes, this dropped to 0.0V.
4. No systems were powering up because we couldn't even get the car to switch the IGN power circuit (totally dead start button, including illumination), so no chance of the Consult II+ tool detecting any systems for testing.

While I have had my vehicle power up fine with the battery sitting on 11.9V or so, this is likely to be a bad battery. So the advice has been to charge the battery up, until the charger shows approximately 1A draw or less (indicating a fully charged battery). Disconnect from charger, let sit unconnected for 30 minutes or more, then measure the battery with a meter to see if it sits on or around 12.5V at least.

If the battery still sinks to around 12.1V or less, it's a dud and a warranty replacement should be obtained. If that still doesn't bring the car to life, the next step will be to check the IPDM, as it is responsible for feeding power to the multiple systems, including the OBD port.

[The Max]

Today's update:
Replacement battery was definitely MUCH healthier, measuring in at 12.66V.

Unfortunately, no change to the original problem though. Start button illumination is still dead. Checked the BCM, power is present at the BCM, the switch contact definitely has continuity to the BCM and grounds when depressed. However, the illumination pin is not being grounded by the BCM, which leads me to believe the BCM has gone bad here, as also indicated in PCS-64 of the G37 FSM.

This will need someone with a scan tool that has the immobiliser support (lacking in mine) to facilitate the replacement of a BCM.

[Scotterjay]

Crazy sequence of events, but the issue ended up being the starter relay was faulty so Nissan replaced that and then the steering lock assembly was giving no response so they had to bypass that for me. If I want a new Steering Lock Assembly for the added security, they quoted me $2265 for the parts and to have them fitted. I'm happy for now to not worry about that too much.

So all in all, considering multiple services struggled to get any response from the vehicle, I dropped it off at Nissan on the 01/10 with no ignition and no ignition lights and got it back today 08/10 for $761 and everything is working fine. Pretty damn happy with that result.

If anyone else has a similar issue, I hope for your sake it is as simple as your Starter Relay being faulty.
Thank you everyone for your help! 

Thank you for everything TheMax, you have been an insanely good help. Also thanks for updating the post for anyone else that is struggling with something similar, absolute LEGEND!

Edited October 8, 2020 by Scotterjay
TheMax

[The Max]

So it wasn't the BCM after all? Well bugger me! You have nothing to thank me for considering I got it wrong!

Good to hear you're back up and running.

[niZmO_Man]

It's good to see people posting fixes so future viewers can have an idea of where to look.

[The Max]

Forums would be a lot more useful if more people did so. That's why we come here in the first place. It's just a shame that so many post here about their problems and then fall dead silent so that the rest of us can't learn a thing or two.

Granted, I'm not going to pretend that we're all entitled to everyone's knowledge after they've gone through the expense like Scotterjay did, as have the rest of us at one point or another, but I would argue, what's there to gain by keeping the cards close to one's chest when most of us don't do it for a living anyway?

[Menya]

I had a similar problem if the yellow and red key lights though non of the accessories was turning on including horn, lights even the doors could not central lock. After going through the knocking of the steering lock etc all in vain. When I was checking out the battery I realized that my right fuse on the positive battery terminal had blown. Did a power jump and the yellow light went off. Take a closer look at those 2 fuse