Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys, me again with the non running vq25det stagea, starting to nail down on components trying to diagnose my issue and noticed something while removing and cleaning my crank sensor

i noticed metal fragments on the magnetic part of the sensor, so i cleaned then off, refitted the sensor and tried to give it a strart, and i noticed for the first time in a while it fired and tried to start on the first try, but on the second and third there was no fire, so i took out the sensor again, cleaned it again and same thing, fired first try, still no start, but on second and thirrd try its again not firing

so my question is, could my sensor be faulty? what else could be causing this?

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481149-m35-stagea-crank-but-no-start/
Share on other sites

Its usually crank or cam sensors.

Google instructions on how to pull fault codes from the ecu and it should pinpoint which sensor it is. There's a dance you do with the acc pedal and ignition key. Best to use a stopwatch when trying to do it. All info is available on this site via Google.

  • Like 1

@admS15 thankyou very much, i have just done that and came back with a code of 0115, which is 'Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction" everything i see says that wont stop the car from starting though, it will just run rough until it warms up? i have tried to erase the code using the mentioned method on the forum, and that has not worked (yet).. none the less, thankyou very much for the tip! i shall keep trying to diagnose the issue, or call lube or something

35 minutes ago, Gibbsygoodness said:

@admS15 thankyou very much, i have just done that and came back with a code of 0115, which is 'Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction" everything i see says that wont stop the car from starting though, it will just run rough until it warms up? i have tried to erase the code using the mentioned method on the forum, and that has not worked (yet).. none the less, thankyou very much for the tip! i shall keep trying to diagnose the issue, or call lube or something

Try unplugging the coolant temp sensor and then try starting

@admS15 thanks again, and i hate to be that guy, but do you know where i could find the sensor? i believe its near the thermostat but i cant seem to find anything besides what seems to be a broken plug, which could be both what im looking for and my issue

There's a pipe at the rear of the engine that connects the two banks, the coolant sensor is in that. It could also be the wiring that goes to the sensor, that should be inspected. Here is a diagram with the location highlighted.

1567665588862_big.png

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey @admS15, thanks for that tip, was a pain to remove but i got it, now here's what happened.

after removing just the plug from the sensor, it started almost no hesitation a ran rather fine besides a slight miss, so i took the sensor out and down to sprint auto, grabbed a new one as they're rather cheap, i was supplied with a cts-031 which seems to be correct and once i fitted it, it did start and run for a while but cut out after a few minutes and it looked like the temp gauge wasn't working either, but once again it continued to not start after that, i again removed the plug from the sensor and it started again but ran rough.. not quite sure where to go from here, the opinion from my group is spark plugs and coil packs but again i just really don't know

Man, im out of ideas. Have you checked the wiring loom going to the sensor. Your original code was relating to coolant temp circuit. The new sensor you got may not be 100% compatible either. I like to use genuine Nissan stuff for troubleshooting. You could go to a wreckers yard and try match up a sensor out of another Nissan like a Maxima or pulsar etc. 

Would be good to check what the actual sensor is reading. A scan tool that can read m35's will required (consult or snap on). There is a phone app that works via Bluetooth obd adaptor (elm 327) called hobdrive. The demo version should enable you to see what the temp is doing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...