Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So my rb26 has an issue where it ate up two valves, damaged piston and bore and damaged head chamber. Anyways I need to figure out what to do. I have a full set of darton sleeves and was thinking of using them and wanted to know what everyone’s thought is on running them. Also my head is Cnc ported and was thinking of welding chamber up and digitizing a clean chamber and milling it out at work. What’s your thoughts.

Thanks

Richard

Edited by ricardo.benin
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481377-need-help-on-rb26-build/
Share on other sites

Send head to head shop. It probably isn't as simple as "digitsing, welding up and copying". The broad shape of the chamber can probably be done like that but any damage around the valve seats probably can't be fixed that way, and it would need to go to the shop anyway. Might as well just skip the geek-fest fun part of it and get the whole lot done by someone who's done it before.

I like the sound of where you work! How did you bend valves, some sort of timing/timing belt issue?

Other than getting too large (ie if it was already 87mm), I would definitely bore the block out and reuse the current sleeves. Of course the liners can be replaced but that is a lot of precision work when a bore would do the job (noting, depending on access to equipment that may not be too expensive for you). The bores (when measured/machined correctly) are not a problem point on RBs

Re the head...normally you would get a fresh bare head because they aren't that expensive, even brand new, but again, if you have the tools and knowhow, welding and remachining may be an option. 

Appreciate it, the head was welded by one of the best aluminum welders is the states for head and block welding. And I think what happened is I must of got valve float or something along those lines. When I bought the car the seller said car is ready to make serious power which it wasn’t, had a rebuilt short block with tomei pistons and a Cnc ported head. and stock everything else, so not sure what was going on in the sellers head but it was my fault for taking his word. I bought mahle pistons, darton sleeves, oil pump drive kit to fix the oil gear, and carillos top of the line rods with there super rod bolts that are supposed to be better than arp. Still not sure on what springs and retainers to run. I’m not sure if I want to run a dual springs because of the added seat pressure and valve train wear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...