Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, drifter17a said:

what is max speed of the 5th gear on standard gearbox?

Do the calc yourself. You know your diff ratio. You know your tyre size. You know 5th gear ratio. You might have a better idea of how many revs it might pull at the top end of 5th (based on how much power the car makes, which we don't know either).

You don't even have to do all that. Just drive it at 4000rpm in 5th. How fast is it going? Double that number for an 8000rpm top end. take 7/8 of that number for a 7000rpm top end, etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481413-r34-vmax-200/#findComment-7942473
Share on other sites

Yeah kind of scared to push it to 180.

need to do some research to find the max speed. Looking around it is around 186 to 200

have pushed to 150 and feels like a fly so if crashed nothing will be left of me . Even with air bag as car doesn’t feel that strong body wise

 

i want to see how it standa against other cars so probably push to 150 and back off

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481413-r34-vmax-200/#findComment-7942475
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Going fast is fine, crashing is the problem with lack of airbag so don't do that.

 

 

 

I hope your tune is absolutely spot on, if not you will find out after sustained full throttle like that

Would things like air temp and oil temp show if car is holding well ?

 

for instance if i do full throttle for few runs and see temps going up or is it more tune may have problems so in 5th gear it could have wrong timing and engine pops?

 

many runs done on dyno so i am thinking map should be ok. It is custom map so with 1-2 hours of dyno I guess there out to be map issues

 

map is locked and my knowledge isn’t great to do it myself

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481413-r34-vmax-200/#findComment-7942476
Share on other sites

180mph = ~280kph, right? Most likely you won't have the power in 5th to get there, and on a runway you won't have enough distance from a standing start to get close to that.

tyres would be the only thing I'd be even slightly concerned about, so use a quality tyre with appropriate load and speed ratings, and pressure. well, that and an accurate wheel alignment with a little toe in for stability.

just an example, here our v8 supercar category run about 650hp, and over a 2klm downhill straight they are about 295km/h, and that is leaving a corner at about 100, not from a standing start.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481413-r34-vmax-200/#findComment-7942488
Share on other sites

Please enlighten me as on serious note and maybe novice, i thought power is speed so if I have 650hp then i should be able to achieve that kind of speed

 

i can very quickly get to 125mph and 100 to 200 kph is around 6 sec so don’t understand the principle of why it won’t have puff to get to 185 if gearbox can get there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481413-r34-vmax-200/#findComment-7942502
Share on other sites

How far do you travel each second at 185mph? Start with that number and compare it to the length of the runway, then factor in getting to that speed and slowing back down. Runway goes away at a frightening rate. Set up the equations and integrate for distance if you're capable of the math.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481413-r34-vmax-200/#findComment-7942512
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...