Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Guys , i am just after some help and advise :  I decided to do the timing on a V35 2001 skyline VQ25DD although there is a lot of info on others VQ not much available for the older series like this one . while removing the camshaft bolt accidentally my cams were rotated and lost the original position and now i am in a big dilema whether the lobs are in the correct position or not  I have set the chain and tensioners and guides  and cylinder 1 at TDC confirming with old screw driver method,I have rotated the engine manually and it goes freely  , I also noticed that inside the timing case there is a small pimple and the intake sprocket has a dot that i think I should be aligned with that one ? (as per photo) while on the bank 2 seems to be aligned  is a fun job but a live or die for me ( i am not a mechanic hope this is clear enough ) thank you

left bank.jpg

right bank.jpg

lobes.JPG

crank.JPG

Hey Mate take a look at this on this forum

post-49463-0-69779900-1454503488.jpg

Looking For Timing Marks V35 Skyline

By MJTru, February 3, 2016 in Naturally Aspirated Performance

Edited by Rusty Nuts
resize
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
×
×
  • Create New...