Jump to content
SAU Community

rb25det with 26 internals first start mapping

tidi0x

By tidi0x,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

tidi0x Apprentice

tidi0x

Posted
Posted

I am currently building my S2 25det from my R33 with a 26 crank, nitto I beams, and 26 CP pistons. 

I have a G4x PNP which I intend on using with a brand new loom from wiring specialties with r35 coils. However when it comes time to do first start since pulled the car down from bone stock I want to drop the built engine in the car as stock for first start because I know those parts WORK and I do not have to diagnose anything with new ecu, loom, turbo, intake etc.... 

I have no issue running the G4x on first start, but I do not know which base map to use be it the 25 or the 26 map, so my second option (And somewhat preferred) is the stock ecu, but I am concerned because the stroke is longer technically the ignition would be slightly retarted and I do not want to risk knock or detonation; Obviously I do not intend to beat on it, but I want to put light driving load accel and decel on the car to set the rings. After first start and drive, I will tear it down and run my turbo, intake mani, G4X and take it to my tuner to get the tune.  

Am I safe to run stock ecu for first run and drive?

Also can someone please validate that for a 25 with 26 internals I need to run 26 Main bearings.... I have found two threads that talk about it with no SOLID answer. 

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted

use the 25 base map if a plugin as the inputs/outputs will be different but should always confirm all settings before first start. The Link ignition base map is fine for first start.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Komdotkom
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Duncan
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Duncan
      New

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...