Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is it possible to import an R35 Gtr from Japan now? 

I'm aware some of the better known importers have made reference to this as being possible, but I see no official mention of this anywhere. Furthermore, I don't see a Raws listed on the dotars website who could comply an r35. 

There are also none for sale on carsales, but I doubt this is simply because there is insufficient price difference between Japan and Australia. I'd think it supports the theory that these still aren't eligible for import yet. 

Given I've now missed out on a shmick r33 gtr vspec 3 which would have set me back 90k, and then an r34 gtr v which was on the wrong side of 280k.... It seems ludicrous that I'd continue to look at cars in that price range before considering the newer, better r35 gtr. 

Cheers 

Jez 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481655-importing-r35-gtr/
Share on other sites

Thanks all. 

SEVS eligibility is one thing.... But an accredited RAWS that has submitted the evidence pack, been approved and now has plates available is probably another. 

Because the dotars 'search for a raws' still has zero entries for the R35 gtr. 

http://raws.infrastructure.gov.au/rawswebpublic/RAWPubSearch.asp#results

And the fact that I never heard of a single compliance workshop that does these cars... Makes me think some import brokers are perhaps a bit 'ahead of the curve' 

(I'm sure someone would be welcome to buy and provide the test vehicle for the evidence pack... But I'm too consumed by other things to want to do that). 

My guess is that the lack of price differential between jdm and adm r35 gtr is what has deterred compliance shops from pursuing the R35 gtr. After all, not only do you have the snafu instrumentation issue to deal with (all in Japanese) but the lack of service history, the inability to see the car, yadda yadda yadda.... I guess you'd want a 15k discount on the local product in order to want to buy the jdm derivative. And as Joshua points out, only being able to get the earliest model is a further drawback. 

Oh well...... Back to the drawing board.... 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...