Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I changed the suction and return hoses on the power steering tank and changed the fluid to go with it but I’m still having leaking issues. It’s leaking very faintly all it does is just cover the resovoir in a thin film of oil. It seems to be coming from where the two parts of the tank connect, but it could be the cap itself.

I have no rubber rings of gaskets on cap, does anybody know exactly where it should go and what sizes? And from the part that connects the two parts of the reservoir , how did you reseal that part?

A3BEAF4A-2C72-4C0D-B8AF-73A3AEA661DB.jpeg

9CD8DC57-958B-4C0F-8B94-21CB47AA4121.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482034-power-steering-leak/
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The lid gasket would pretty clearly go in the part of the lid that contacts the top edge of the reserviour......

I put a o ring around the part I marked yellow. Or should I put one around the front part marked red?

 

9FE23732-3115-430A-A775-2D8AB5CE43C0.jpeg

Edited by IM-32-FK

It is more likely caused by no or low vacuum to the power steering pump causing excessive foaming of the ATF. There is no seal in them originally because that three pipe arrangement in the cap is actually a labyrinth intended to increase the air volume above ATF. You should have a vacuum line from after the MAF to the PS pump and a line to the carbon canister.

Edited by Rusty Nuts
11 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

It is more likely caused by no or low vacuum to the power steering pump causing excessive foaming of the ATF. There is no seal in them originally because that three pipe arrangement in the cap is actually a labyrinth intended to increase the air volume above ATF. You should have a vacuum line from after the MAF to the PS pump and a line to the carbon canister.

I know exactly what your talking about. It’s these vacuum hoses. Are you telling me their is low vacuum on them? Like they are blocked or something?

FE059F78-1B02-485D-B7A7-B57517848926.jpeg

429E6250-4F03-4B2A-9CF1-22B806015A9C.jpeg

Yes thats them, one side should go to carbon canister. They should be original size hoses to work correctly, and your canister system must be working correctly (ie no leaks)

Edited by Rusty Nuts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...