Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wasted a ton of time searching for topics on this so for the sake of people in future who may be searching, here are the reasons why if you look at your cam angle sensor it isn't in the middle of the slot. Tyndago has said on gtrusablog that if the cas is not at or near center on a stock car, you should be asking questions, and he is right.

Reasons

1. an aftermarket ecu can handle the cas twisted anywhere. You just have to set it up at the ecu in the mapping tables. So for example the cas may be deliberately positioned at what looks like max advance so that the owner doesn't muck around in a bad direction.

2. there is a cam gear and the exhaust cam has been adjusted, and the cas has been twisted to keep ignition timing the same rather than setting the ECU.

2a. the ignition timing is way off. and all is ok if the cas goes back to center slot.

2b. the cam belt is installed one tooth out and then the base timing was set. You now have 7.5 degrees of cam advance/retard

3. there is no cam gear and no programmable ecu but someone has decided they want to advance or retard ignition a little. The degrees twist from slot center is twice that number for ignition timing. So for example, a cas twist similar to "one tooth" out is most of the slot, and that's 1/48th x 360 x 2 = 15 degrees of ignition change.

4. there is no cam gear and no aftermarket ecu but the cam is aftermarket and the press fit locator inside the exhaust cam (looks like an offset slot, for R34, that is tilted somewhat with respect to the four bolt holes) is not quite right, so the CAS was twisted to get the base timing correct again.

5. the cas has a broken locator (meshes with the metal shape inside the cam) and this is causing all kinds of issues

6. the head and block have been machined and this changes the geometry slightly. I don't think this is worth much movement in the slot.

7. final answer. The stock sprocket has elongated bolt holes and locator hole and the bolts have been done up such that the cam is rotated from where it was supposed to sit, this is the backyard cam gear solution and you can't see it unless you either degree the cams and discover that with the sprocket marked tooth lined up with the backplate, the cam is twisted, OR, loosen the sprocket and see how much play it has on the cam. This final answer turned out to be my problem. I've seen this "backyard adjustable cam gear" mentioned for other motors, but could not find any threads on this for RB26.

Unless of course nissan stock cam sprockets all come with elongated holes? I don't think so, as they have the same part number for exhaust and intake and one of mine had elongation applied to all holes and the other just to the locator hole.

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dredgggggeeee time; I have recently finally started driving the car. It sat for so long that the fuel tank gave birth to rust sludge and blocked my lift pump sock and one of my walbro 460's and left grime, rust chunks and muck all through the surge tank and system. I decided to commit and pull the trigger on an oem r32 gtr fuel tank and Frenchys twin 460 / sender / surge tank hanger combo and all new larger lines and fittings etc, also boost doc heater hose kit / new heater core and a heap of other bits and shits like wideband sensor installed in the dump and Syltech iacv + lines and all wired and added to current tune. now having lightly driven it a couple times without issue, I can happily report on the hta3076 in its current tune. still no boost control switched on, 20psi gate springs, car makes 22psi at 3200rpm in 6th gear with 30-50% TPS from cruise at 100kmh. Going by the old graph, this means it should be making 300-325whp at the same numbers above. Very very responsive setup under true road driving loads. all that's left for the build is body loom + PDM, finish the remote aircon setup, install carbon fibre parts and go for full tune and 30psi. the 315 rear tyres are now performing like they're 195's, wheel spin in any gear at almost any rpm, whereas my previous setup hooked up in 3rd no issue, albeit Nt01's back then / RB25 5spd vs (new) old date r888r's Z34 6spd now, + obviously all the support upgrades I listed in the quoted post above. car sits at 1-3psi on cruise at 100kmh, expectations totally exceeded and I'm beyond stoked with all this so far. IMG_4848.mov
    • I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 
    • Can a moderator please move this into the right category.. I've accidently put this into racing build thread 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Being a manual, we very quickly ordered new R34 gearbox (From Nissan) and remaining parts from Kudos motorsports. Would highly recommend the team there. Ultra helpful and quick to share advice and upgrades. We are in the middle of taking the Auto out (Genuine 94,000/kms) and putting the Manual in this weekend. Part 2 of the build will include likely a Plazaman Intercooler and Plenium, Hks Exhaust with Tomei Dump (ordered).
×
×
  • Create New...