Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So guys I need some help, I've just put a series 1 rb25det from a running r33 into my s14 drift car. I've used the engine loom and dash loom (so I can use the cluster) sent power to the appropriate wires on the engine loom/ECU but I'm not getting any spark or ignition. 

The car is bare bones and has ignition, fuel pumps and starter on a switch panel, does anyone have any info on how to get it up and running.

 

Cheers 

 

 

DSC_0457.JPG

Cheers robbo, just had a quick browse through it, hopefully there is something in it that will help. From what I can tell I've done pretty much what it says, only difference is that I'm not using any of the old 200sx looms. 

It's basically a full track car so I just need the engine to run 

Are you sure the ECU is powered up correctly? Can you attach a consult of some sort to the port to monitor?

ECU power needs the ECCS relay all hooked up correctly, that would be the place to start if the whole ECU is dead.

Isn't the fuel pump relay in the boot originally? Both my fuel pumps, starter and ignition switch are independently wired, basically ran switched 12v to the wires on that pinout that require 12v

Plugs have been pulled and checked for spark but I have nothing.

The second relay near the ecu isn't coming on, I'm sure one is eccs and the other ignition? I did find a pin on the white connector in the drivers footwell that powered up this relay but when checking for 12v output from it there was nothing. 

 

Yeah there are variations in the looms from different years, but if you have 2 relays on is ECCS and the other ignition.

Per your diagram pin 16 should earth the ECCS relay when the ECU gets IGN on signal, so check out that part first. 

I'm guessing the one that's clicking when ignition is switched is the eccs relay.

It seems the ignition relay is the one that isn't clicking which would explain the lack of spark. Even when I put power to the pin I mentioned on the I believe f3 plug in the drivers footwell there is no 12v out of the ignition relay 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...