Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

This morning I took the car to my mechanic to have a new Nismo GT LSD (38420-RS015-BA) installed and he's just contacted me with some issues regarding bolt sizing and flange fitment.

So far he's told me that the bolts that came with the Diff assembly are too small, 12mm vs the 13mm in the car already. And also he cannot get the flanges to fit correctly.

I should mention that the car is a stock 1998 ER34 GTT, however it came as a factory auto and had been swapped to a (cursed) R32 transmission. I wouldn't have thought the diff has been changed but who knows.

As far as the gearing is concerned, I'm certain my ER34 has the AT ratio for final drive as the acceleration is noticeably quicker than another ER34 GTT I've driven.

My question is, do you have any idea what may be happening here? I would have thought there would be no issues installing the Nismo diffs.

There's also the issue that he doesn't speak much English, and I dont speak much Japanese, but he's a nice bloke and has been very helpful so far and dont good quality work on smaller jobs.

The rear ratio for AT is 4.08 vs 4.111 in Manual. This is utterly un-noticable. (about 1kmh per gear shorter/longer).

Do you really have a R34 GTT standard?

If any of the setup is to suit a N/A in the rear end, you'll have different axles to suit. If it isn't that - For some reason Nismo have two different part numbers for the R34, one for series 1 (98-2000) and one for series 2 (2000-2001)

The one you posted is series2. I am not sure what the differences actually are (or if it is even relevant.) But it is a different part number.

  • Like 1

Something doesn't add up here.

My car is factory 1999 GTT A/T and it had the 13mm bolts. It had an VLSD.

So this makes me think that if the Nismo P/N really matches and the unit was brand new unopened, that something went wrong somewhere down the line at Nismo (highly unlikely of course). I suppose it would make more sense the other way around: the car had 12mm bolts it and Nismo came with 13mm.

About the flanges: I believe all Nismo LSDs come with the drive shaft ends/stub axles/flanges so unless they don't match the driveshaft bolt pattern (in ER34 this should be 5 in a star shape), there shouldn't be any problems with them.

Note that you cannot use the original VLSD stubs with the Nismo, probably the splines don't match and one of them is too long anyway, so if your Nismo LSD didn't come with the stubs, then no wonder there's trouble.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

The rear ratio for AT is 4.08 vs 4.111 in Manual. This is utterly un-noticable. (about 1kmh per gear shorter/longer).

Do you really have a R34 GTT standard?

If any of the setup is to suit a N/A in the rear end, you'll have different axles to suit. If it isn't that - For some reason Nismo have two different part numbers for the R34, one for series 1 (98-2000) and one for series 2 (2000-2001)

The one you posted is series2. I am not sure what the differences actually are (or if it is even relevant.) But it is a different part number.

The acceleration sensation is subjective and if anything irrelevant anyway. 

The part number is correct according to the Nismo catalogue, along with the chassis number and Nissan EPC.

I did get an update that he managed to fit the flanges and have since picked the car up. However, he did use the original 13mm bolts. Unfortunately he didn't get any pics of the work.

He made a comment about how disgusting the insides were and that he was unable to clean up all of the caked oil. The car has about 240k kms on it.

 1973578787_NissanEPC.thumb.JPG.e01cbbde2bcddcf60b83ac4259071e08.JPG887267623_NismoGTLSDPartNumbers.thumb.JPG.23cdedc92b93326eddb2ae6dcf08a30b.JPG

1 hour ago, tsuokun said:

Something doesn't add up here.

My car is factory 1999 GTT A/T and it had the 13mm bolts. It had an VLSD.

So this makes me think that if the Nismo P/N really matches and the unit was brand new unopened, that something went wrong somewhere down the line at Nismo (highly unlikely of course). I suppose it would make more sense the other way around: the car had 12mm bolts it and Nismo came with 13mm.

About the flanges: I believe all Nismo LSDs come with the driv e shaft ends/stub axles/flanges so unless they don't match the driveshaft bolt pattern (in ER34 this should be 5 in a star shape), there shouldn't be any problems with them.

Note that you cannot use the original VLSD stubs with the Nismo, probably the splines don't match and one of them is too long anyway, so if your Nismo LSD didn't come with the stubs, then no wonder there's trouble.

I know right, luckily the mechanic was able to get the flanges in today - he told me it was super difficult - and I was able to pick the car up. However, he did not use the 12mm bolts that came with the diff. 

It is odd, and even if Nismo were to have made a mistake - again, highly unlikely - you'd have thought it would have been corrected this far down the line. Where the mistake lies and what I am going to do with these additional bolts, I have no idea. 

Well, glad you have your car back on the road again.

I installed an S13 Kaaz 2way on my ER34 and just drilled out the diff centre holes to accept the bigger bolts. I also transferred the ABS rings from the ER34 stubs to the S13 5-bolt stubs.

Going to go Nismo at some point so this was good information. Need to check things carefully.

Cheers.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...