Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone please confirm if o2 oval plug is front or rear and square plug is front or rear? because part listings at kudos and efi for lambda sensors seems opposite to the scanned copies of manuals online, though not sure the manual is correct given they come from random downloads. The first pic comes from nissan epc via Amayama but it is hard to see the plug is drawn differently. In fact one of them I found labels both plugs as "rear" -- ugh.
Since I removed my bad sensors to install new ones I can't even check my car anymore. ecutalk seems to agree the square plug is (R) for Rear -- if the second voltage is "rear" and the first voltage is "front".

IMG_7891.jpg

IMG_7892.jpg

IMG_7893.jpg

Is it the case that either loom plug can reach to either sensor without looking overly stretched, etc? Surely there's one physical configuration that looks natural and one that looks less natural.

If you put it all together and run it, you could probably find out directly if you have ECUTalk by pulling #2 injector plug or coil plug while running and look to see which sensor reacts. Whichever sensor reacts is the front one. If the ECU thinks it's the rear one, just swap.

both sockets are same place and both sensors have similar wire length.

good idea on pulling a coil plug that would make that bank rich for sure so I will try that to settle it if necessary.

nissan epc which is the origin of the snapshot pic of two cables says -24u00 is the front sensor and -24u01 is the rear and has gotta be authoritative,

(the ecu pinout diagram I pulled from the r34 “supplement-I” manual seems misleading).

so front, -24u00 is square plug, but on ecutalk showed as the second voltage number which is why I started double checking if I had installed them wrong to begin with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...