Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Reverse light are not even hooked up at the gearbox connector, and I don’t see any wiring at all,that indicate they could be for reverse light.  Which could have been deleted from previous owner. 
 Researching through online, Figured out the reverse light wiring is part of this unwrapped harness in the photo. 
Does anyone know which one are they ?

Also once I know the wires how should I proceed connecting them to the box ?

TIA

16482FE3-EDC6-456D-868B-388A29F53928.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482555-r32-manual-box-reverse-light-wiring/
Share on other sites

Yea man tried looking into it, couldn’t figure out still. Only transmission wiring I found in that manual is the neutral switch and speedo.

If you know the page no. For whole transmission wiring, that be great. 
Still don’t think it’be same for 20det box

1 hour ago, Rb25orange said:

Still don’t think it’be same for 20det box

The 20DET RWD box and the 26/20DET AWD box both have a reverse switch. The reverse switch wiring will definitely be on the diagram. I'm 2000km away from my copy of the manual, so can't easily look for you. Keep looking.

One is neutral, the other is reverse. You can actually work out which is which for yourself by probing them. One will be closed (short circuit) in neutral.....the other in reverse.

FWIW, on the small l box, I think the frontmost one is reverse and neutral is the rear one.

  • Thanks 1

OK, so, I downloaded the R32 GTR manual that's up on NicoClub's site. On the 3rd page of wiring diagrams (the last pages of the PDF), which I show here zoomed out for identification purposes

image.thumb.png.4c3ac3d818b06b9ea7c3920cdb1960fc.png

Right in the middle is the reverse lamps and the reverse switch (for MT vehicles)) is shown right there, just above it. I've zoomed it in and circled the area of interest, here

image.thumb.png.0c1a147b0b7120754d81f3df7ba8366f.png

The wire that runs along the bottom of the reverse light is earth. If you follow it to the left across the pages of the pdf you will find it ends at the -ve symbol. On the way, it passes both the vehicle speed sensor and and the neutral switch too (as you scan along the diagram). I don't know if this means that there is a buss wire or if it the body earth, but it doesn't matter. This will become relevant later, when I describe probing.

It shows the wire colours, but sadly, this pdf is too low a resolution to be able to decipher them.

I have at least 2x pdfs at home, plus the paper copy that I photocopied myself from a manual I borrrowed from Nissan Australia last century. I'm sure that at least one of the pdfs I have (and my photocopy) have legible wire numbers everywhere.

So what I'm telling you is, find a pdf upload that has better quality (if the one you already have isn't good enough), and have a look at that section. The wire colours are shown each side of the switch.

But, there are still things you can do even without a legible drawing. You can use manual methods to probe the wires. Start with a meter connected to the appropriate side of the reverse lamp wiring in the boot (the side that goes back to the switch, not the earth side that I described above) and probe around the gearbox loom under the car until you find continuity. That should be one of the wires. Then, the other wire is known to go to IGN relay 2, shown on the next page of the pdf, with the interesting parts circled n the below image. That wire code circled is the lower wire of the pair that comes in from the left, which is the same wire that leaves the previous page on the right, having come through the reverse switch. You go find IGN relay 2 and you can identify the wire coming out the relay that delivers 12v to these circuits, and probe looking for continuity to wires in the gearbox loom.

image.thumb.png.eb48db5bb2853334174515da13742f62.png

As a further plus, the neutral switch should be 2 of the other wires in the gearbox loom. One of them will be earth and the other one will go back to the appropriate terminal on the ECU, which I think is 44, but you should double check with the ECU pinout.

Edited by GTSBoy
spellink
  • 3 months later...

I have recently brought a R32 that had been manual swapped it had no wiring running down to the tranny that is supposed to Be next to the fuse box in the engine bay, the reverse light switch is not hooked up and the only thing I see the old owner done right was bridge the inhibitor so the car can start, does anyone have photos of wat plug and pinout is used for the to wires on the reverse light switch :)

Also the 3pin plug in the middle wat is it for?

 

Screenshot_2021-10-09-02-48-03-070.jpg

  • 3 months later...

@GTSBoy

thanks mate, been totally strapped at work didn’t get a chance to look up here, at the time rwc guy turned back, was too keen to see em reverse lights so did a bit of dodgy job wiring it straight from the box to rear lamps hahaha, and had him back and should have taken a photo of him smiling lol,

 

 

@Nathan rfb

Mate not too sure how different it might be on a auto loom, 

green (grey dots)

green/white trace 

was the wiring for me from the big connector next to the fuse box in engine bay area. Same has wiring for neutral switch green/o from memory.

If this doesn’t help, the MIGHTY METER worked out for me in the end.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...