Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, lately my V35 drift car has been hard to get into first/reverse when idling at a stop sometimes. I have tried adjusting the clutch pedal, giving it the maximum preload one way so it releases the clutch the most (just for testing) which doesn't help. I've since adjusted it back to its correct positioning so there is no preload on the pressure plate etc. 

Also sometimes when letting out the clutch, I get a bit of vibration thru the pedal. I'm guessing the flywheel is a bit warped due to all the heat cycles from drifting it. I have bled the clutch system properly as well. Transmission fluid etc is all new

Any suggestions to help it, except for removing the flywheel and getting it reground? 

Regards, 

Blake.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482646-hard-to-get-into-first-gear/
Share on other sites

I had these symptoms in my old R31 skyline year ago, turned out the clutch plate had failed (and was nearly worn down to the pins.

Toward the end I had to put it in first and start the car, because I couldn't get it in 1st with the engine running.

Single or twin plate?  From what I have read and been told by mechanics.  The V35s chew twin plates to dust really fast.  Getting mine replaced right now.  It should be noted that my twin plate clutch has only done like 16000kms from new.  I barely ever drive my V35.  It spends more time in the shop than with me.  The single plate lasted over 110000kms

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...