Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, 

with the lockdown in effect, I thought I’d fix some things in my car. I was trying to get the light around the cigarette lighter rim to work, but it kept shorting out. I figured out that the previous owner connected the blitz dual sbc boost controllers positive red and ground black wire straight to the positive and negative wire of the cigarette lighter socket. I guess when I now connect the light to the socket it’s shorting out because it’s going over amperage(15A).

so I was wondering where to connect the positive and negative for the boost controller. I was thinking maybe to the head deck radio loom.

cheers

 

On 8/3/2021 at 4:56 PM, IM-32-FK said:

I guess when I now connect the light to the socket it’s shorting out because it’s going over amperage(15A).

Unlikely. That globe will draw 3/5ths of f**k all current. The problem is more likely to be that the current (added onto) wiring is f**ked up or your attempt to reinstate the light is f**ked up in some way.

On 8/3/2021 at 4:56 PM, IM-32-FK said:

so I was wondering where to connect the positive and negative for the boost controller. I was thinking maybe to the head deck radio loom.

You could do that. There's plenty of power there to run something as small as a boost controller - although keep in mind that the power for the solenoid passes through the controller and is not a negligible amount for some solenoids. Unless you have lots of other stuff running off there or a massive amp in the headunit, it should be fine.

  • Like 1
On 03/08/2021 at 5:50 PM, GTSBoy said:

Unlikely. That globe will draw 3/5ths of f**k all current. The problem is more likely to be that the current (added onto) wiring is f**ked up or your attempt to reinstate the light is f**ked up in some way.

You could do that. There's plenty of power there to run something as small as a boost controller - although keep in mind that the power for the solenoid passes through the controller and is not a negligible amount for some solenoids. Unless you have lots of other stuff running off there or a massive amp in the headunit, it should be fine.

How sure are you? I checked the wiring, the pos and neg of the boost controller are directly bridged to the pos and neg of the cigarette socket. I’m also trying it with a t5 led globe not those standard halogen t5 bulbs. The socket for the light housing and cigarette housing are seperate. The light housing grounds onto the cigarette housing with a large pin that pushes against the cigarette housing. If I’m grounding it after turning the key to ON, will it cause it to short?

id like to mention that the cigarette lighter socket still works, like I can put a USB charger in it and it’ll work, but as soon as I put the light in the socket it shorts out.

Also I’m running nothing but the reverse camera directly to accessory wire for the head deck

Edited by IM-32-FK
  • Haha 1

How sure am I? As sure as I can be from here. Have you got the wiring diagram? Get it out** and look to see that the wiring for the light is part of the lighting circuit anyway, has separate wires that don't connect with the lighter socket itself, so the problem you describe sounds more and more like a f**ked up wiring situation.

 

** This is snipped from the R32 wiring diagram. I don't have the R34 drawing here. Separate plugs, from separate places. The light has just one wire coming from the lighting circuit. The ciggy lighter has power from the ciggy fuse and earth from somewhere logical.

image.thumb.png.46bf252c93498bc42d39c0744e1cdce2.png

  • Like 1
On 03/08/2021 at 9:07 PM, GTSBoy said:

How sure am I? As sure as I can be from here. Have you got the wiring diagram? Get it out** and look to see that the wiring for the light is part of the lighting circuit anyway, has separate wires that don't connect with the lighter socket itself, so the problem you describe sounds more and more like a f**ked up wiring situation.

 

** This is snipped from the R32 wiring diagram. I don't have the R34 drawing here. Separate plugs, from separate places. The light has just one wire coming from the lighting circuit. The ciggy lighter has power from the ciggy fuse and earth from somewhere logical.

image.thumb.png.46bf252c93498bc42d39c0744e1cdce2.png

Yes, you are right. The cigg socket has a power and ground wire going to it whereas the cigg light got just has a power wire and a prong that grounds itself to the cig socket when it’s pushed against it. The cig light is always turned on because it turns on when the key is on the ON position, just like the screen for the climate control on r34. 
 

I would like to mention, when I make it sit naturally like in the pic, the light doesn’t turn on or react. Only when I ground it to other parts of the metal cigg socket, will it turn on for a split second before shorting again. What does this mean?

Do you think the issue is the socket for the light bulb itself? Maybe it is f**ked? Maybe I should order a new one.

 

59FABC70-4C8A-460F-B39F-7B0D3AADCCAD.jpeg

Edited by IM-32-FK
On 04/08/2021 at 8:24 AM, GTSBoy said:

Well, next, what do you mean by "shorting"? What actually happens? Does it blow the fuse?

Yes the cigarette lighter fuse blows a split second after it lights on

So measure the resistance of the bulb. If it's only like a 1W or 2W globe (surely they can't be more than that!) then it would want to have a resistance of ~100 ohms. If it's really low resistance (like single digits or less), then it will flow too much current and blow the 15A fuse. The lamp or its holder would then be suspect.

  • 1 year later...
On 3/8/2021 at 9:07 PM, GTSBoy said:

How sure am I? As sure as I can be from here. Have you got the wiring diagram? Get it out** and look to see that the wiring for the light is part of the lighting circuit anyway, has separate wires that don't connect with the lighter socket itself, so the problem you describe sounds more and more like a f**ked up wiring situation.

 

** This is snipped from the R32 wiring diagram. I don't have the R34 drawing here. Separate plugs, from separate places. The light has just one wire coming from the lighting circuit. The ciggy lighter has power from the ciggy fuse and earth from somewhere logical.

image.thumb.png.46bf252c93498bc42d39c0744e1cdce2.png

Read the post above, my man😊

Edited by IM-32-FK
2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Ah, the joys of discovering other people's crack pipe wiring.

How? It’s common for people to use the cigg wires for live ignition. It’s no different to connecting it to another ign wire. In this case, connecting it to cigg wires made the cigg socket work, but wouldn’t light up the light rim.

7 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The very idea that having the boost controller powered from the ciggy lighter socket's power wire would prevent the socket's lighting ring from working is pure crack pipe. What the actual f**k? The lighting is a separate circuit!!!!!

Hmm… because controller power was connected to socket wire and ground was connected to light wire. Maybe that’s why. I mean if both the wires are live, then why would previous owner connect controller ground to live rim light wire? And even then, why would boost controller work?

Edited by IM-32-FK
2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The boost controller was earthing through the light's power side and the light. It's really somewhat fortunate that there wasn't a fuse problem or a fire, is what I think.

Ah I see, the earthing was travelling through the lights wire, passing through the globe and and grounding where the grounding prong makes contact with the cigg socket.

also I did have a fuse problem, as it would blow a fuse as soon as I changed the blown fuse lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Been a long time since r31 got some love, my brother dropped a shitbox ls1 crapadore in my lap to fix up.  Put a wiper motor in as the flooded one was no longer alive.  got windscreen wipers now. Time to clean respray and install back in the titanic  IMG_0505.mov
    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...