Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone clarify which of these clutches are rated for more power/torque?

There is conflicting information on the WEB, OSG (JAP) states the TS2 can handle more power, but on other sites OSG states more power handling for the STR2 ...

https://osgiken.co.jp/Clutch/feature.html

 

I've got the STR2 in my R33 but it now needs a refresh, so thinking about alternatives. I'm also disappointed about how quickly the plates wore out.

I'm driving mostly in traffic that requires a lot of clutch actions, OSG stated that the STR2 is more designed for 'hard' operation and might wear out quickly.

 

 

Thanks

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482884-osg-str2cd-vs-ts2cd-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

The TS clutch is the superior clutch to the STR, but in reality they're both pretty shit for longevity. On a GTR anyway the TS2 doesn't last at all but might be a bit better on a rwd. If you have to get one of those two it's the TS2, but there are way better alternatives from Exedy, ORC, hell even a Nismo Coppermix will be miles better to use and last.

If you want it to last ages and be easy to use - carbon twin or triple ATS, but pricey.

Can you get Xclutch twins where you are ? Extremely good value for money with their twins, especially the carbons.

On 10/4/2021 at 1:47 PM, BK said:

The TS clutch is the superior clutch to the STR, but in reality they're both pretty shit (on a GTR anyway, a TS2 doesn't last) - there are way better alternatives from Exedy, ORC, hell even a Nismo Coppermax will be miles better to use and last.

If you want it to last ages and be easy to use - carbon twin or triple ATS, but pricey.

Can you get Xclutch twins where you are ? Extremely good value for money with their twins, especially the carbons.

Cheers ... I'll check the options you've mentioned.

Do you mean the Nismo Coppermix? They rate it @ 309KW / 420HP .. but that seem to be @ the crank(?) ... and would leave me no headroom

https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/catalogue_2021/html5.html#page=95

 

 

 

Edited by Torques

Not the 400ps at engine garbage, only the competition version if Nismo.

You want headroom and ease of use get an ATS carbon twin, you'll NEVER wear that out at your power level - they're 650 - 850 wheel hp rated. Even the ATS spec 1 carbon triple drives better than a TS2 and starts at 1000 wheel hp, but again $$$.

ATS really is on another level compared to everything mentioned.

On 10/4/2021 at 2:21 PM, BK said:

Not the 400ps at engine garbage, only the competition version if Nismo.

You want headroom and ease of use get an ATS carbon twin, you'll NEVER wear that out at your power level - they're 650 - 850 wheel hp rated. Even the ATS spec 1 carbon triple drives better than a TS2 and starts at 1000 wheel hp, but again $$$.

ATS really is on another level compared to everything mentioned.

 

Well, I'm at around 450ish hp at the crank. That's 335KW, so the clutch should ideally hold 550+  (410KW)

My main grief with the STR is that that plates are worn just after 13,000km. I suppose that driving 70% of the mileage in traffic killed it ..

 

 

Here's OSG's response

If your vehicle's power is under the clutch max capacity, then it is often caused by driving too gently on the clutch.

Our clutches were mostly designed for aggressive use in mind, and it is better to be used somewhat rough on occasions.

 

I don't think you can treat a website rating as a guarantee, after all it is torque that challenges a clutch's holding ability not power.

I am running a nismo coppermx twin in my 400awkw stagea with no issues.

On 10/4/2021 at 9:30 PM, Duncan said:

I don't think you can treat a website rating as a guarantee, after all it is torque that challenges a clutch's holding ability not power.

I am running a nismo coppermx twin in my 400awkw stagea with no issues.

Yes, thanks! Couldn't agree more .. not all manufacturers give a torque rating though.

I asked OSG about the rated torque and they wrote back that they don't give that figure (only power)

How's the pedal feel on the NISMO Twin?

 

Definitely agree the Nismo coppermix twin range drives very nicely and is more than enough for a lot of people's needs.

On 05/10/2021 at 8:11 AM, Duncan said:

I've only ever used singles before including in the race car, but the twin feels light underfoot and holds the power it needs to.

We do have better singles available locally here than the UK though. NPC and Xclutch have singles that will happily take 400kw + at the wheels, which is why I find it ridiculous with OS giken single and twin clutches and how piss weak they are. This is mainly down to having a very light clamping load with their flimsy front cover and pressure plate.

The only decent clutch they make is the R3C and R4C, which is not the sort of clutch you want in a daily driver.

On 10/5/2021 at 12:23 AM, BK said:

Definitely agree the Nismo coppermix twin range drives very nicely and is more than enough for a lot of people's needs.

We do have better singles available locally here than the UK though. NPC and Xclutch have singles that will happily take 400kw + at the wheels, which is why I find it ridiculous with OS giken single and twin clutches and how piss weak they are. This is mainly down to having a very light clamping load with their flimsy front cover and pressure plate.

The only decent clutch they make is the R3C and R4C, which is not the sort of clutch you want in a daily driver.

 

I'm going to order from Japan anyhow so I've got access to the whole lot.

https://www.nengun.com/drivetrain-clutch-kits/#m:1;c:76;g:1

 

 

 

On 05/10/2021 at 5:46 PM, Torques said:

 

I'm going to order from Japan anyhow so I've got access to the whole lot.

https://www.nengun.com/drivetrain-clutch-kits/#m:1;c:76;g:1

 

 

 

Not the whole lot as Xclutch and NPC are Australian. Also RHDjapan will beat Nengun on delivered price everytime if ordering from Japan - check them out.

On 10/5/2021 at 9:20 AM, BK said:

Not the whole lot as Xclutch and NPC are Australian. Also RHDjapan will beat Nengun on delivered price everytime if ordering from Japan - check them out.

Yes, thanks ... I bought from both of them and always compare ..

RHD is also 'helpful' with the customs declaration.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...