Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is this on anyone else's santa list?

Modifications list:

Performance

Power (bhp): 355 + 75hp for N20

Torque (lb-ft): 315

0-60: 4.9

1/4 mile: 13.3

Top speed: 155

Engine

Exhaust: MagnaFlow

Supercharger/Turbocharger: Coming soon

Drivetrain

Transmission: SMG sequential manual

Axle(s): IRS

Brakes

Rotors: Stop Tech 14 front and rear

Calipers: Huge Red calipers!

Suspension

Lowering Kit: KW Version 3

Shock(s) / Strut(s): KW coil overs

Sway Bars: Hotchkis

Misc.: Fully adjustable ride height

Wheels/Tires

Wheel Manufacturer: HRE

Wheel Size: 20 x 9.5 front, 20 x 11 rear

Tire Manufacturer: Continental

Tire Size: 255/30 R20 front, 305/25 R20 rear

Exterior/Chassis

Paint: Candy blue

Ground Effects: Flosman widebody kit

Bumper(s): Flosman

Lighting

Headlights: HIDs with Angel Eye halos

Turn Signals: Stealth bulbs

Interior

Dashboard: Carbon fiber accents

Gauges: Motec racing display

Pedals: Carbon fiber

Seats: Sparco

Electronics

Head Unit: Clarion VRX935DVD

Radar Detector: Passport, built in

Dash Speakers: Infinity

Front Door Speakers: Infinity

Rear Deck Speakers: Infinity

Subwoofers: JBL W12GTi

Subwoofer Enclosure(s): Custom built

Front Amplifier: JBL P80.4

Rear Amplifier: JBL P1200.1

uberm303_01.jpg

uberm303_02.jpg

uberm303_04.jpg

uberm303_10.jpg

uberm303_11.jpg

uberm303_08.jpg

uberm303_engine.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48314-430hp-widebody-m3/
Share on other sites

You could always custom turbo it, and give it more power. You got to remember its only a M3 not a HIGH Performance car.

Uhh... a M3 isn't a high performance car? Then what on earth is?

Adrian, I don't think its been designed as a drag car :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48314-430hp-widebody-m3/#findComment-972427
Share on other sites

i think it should be doing more than a 13.3 more like mid 12's for the fact it has nitrous as well. I'm pretty sure a new stock m3 can do mid 13's or so.

I agree,

Engine M3 Convertible

Cylinders: 6

Valves: 24

Capacity: 3246 cc

Maximum Power: 252 kW / 343 bhp / 7900 rpm

Maximum Torque: 365 Nm / 4900 rpm

Acceleration 0-100km/h: 5.5 s

As you can see, not much HP between Uber's and the Factory, besides the N20... So the only thing i could think of is the speaker system brings the weight up, put the extra Hp and N20 brings it back down to the factory runs.

Well who cares Quote: Supercharger/Turbocharger: Coming soon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48314-430hp-widebody-m3/#findComment-972462
Share on other sites

Guest RedLineGTR

i would say it looks okay...but i like the m3's nice and stock they come with a pretty good package for a stock car with the price tag.

with this image

uberm303_10.jpg

It think it looks like they have been trying to hard...to make it look fat just for the sake of it, rather than make it look better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48314-430hp-widebody-m3/#findComment-972466
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...