Jump to content
SAU Community

R33/R34 Whiteline Swaybar (new, cmon)


Recommended Posts

Near-Brand-New BNF24Z front Swaybar to fit a R33/R34 Skyline. I say near new, because I fitted it to my car and it didn't clear my sump (I have an engine conversion). It will easily clear any RB. It has some marks I would describe as "fitting marks" but otherwise that's the only use it got. Yes, it touched on the sump where the bit of tape is.

It comes with a set of HD links which cost $185 new, though these ones are second hand. Given they're bolts, they definitely work as good as new, all things considered.

It also comes with a fresh bush kit. All up Whiteline would want $440 for this, you can have it for $300.

Much prefer Melb/local, will ship if _you_ organize it to be picked up and delivered to you.

262271192_329973381908422_2909888919136087514_n.jpg

262639235_183708907234395_5097160724538960685_n.jpg

262660910_296892192444023_1868821300145928903_n.jpg

262667525_1591993081140687_6028370307071684618_n.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think last I checked it was 35cm from fender to wheel center. I heard u can go up to 45-48cm before handling his impacted. But I need to check again. I know I was about 1.2 cm off being close to max recommended. 
    • You'd need to weld on an external gate to achieve that number though. I can't remember seeing anyone make 500hp at the wheels with the stock manifold / internally gated turbo.
    • Suspension Component Question Looking for some feedback based on people's experiences! I know this has been loosely covered in other threads but I can't find any direct answers/experience. I'm up for some bush/rod replacements and was interested in a hybrid approach between hardened rubber and pillowball kit. Why not choose one or the other? Well, this is for my daily driver, which I track once or twice a year. I like a stiff car and a sporty feel but I don't want to compromise the chassis too much with 100% pillowball gadgetry.  I know from experience and a tonne of reading that not all components affect ride quality in the same way - eg. in my case, coilover top mounts should be hardened rubber as pillowball transfers way too many undesirable qualities and doesn't have much more upside than a good hardened rubber. But, pillowball tension rods translate to much better turn-in/steering response and make the car significantly sharper, without negatively impacting ride quality in a significant way.  I'm not TOO bothered by NVH (to a degree). So, with context out of the way, does anyone have any experience with a hybrid approach as mentioned above? I'm going to replace all components over time so am seeking guidance on: - front tension rods - upper camber arms - rear lower control arm - rear traction rod - rear upper camber arm - rear toe adjuster rod  Secondly, is there any reason why this is a bad idea? Or any other info/wisdom that I might not be considering. Cheers 🫶
    • That's good to hear I'll stick with the stock I hear they are good for 500hp and I'm only shooting for 350-400 once I can get this thing sorted and get to actually building it. 
    • The stock one will outperform any aftermarket standard position exhaust manifold. If you don't believe me, do a back to back test (same turbo, same boost, same timing) and you'll be super surprised.
×
×
  • Create New...