Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GTT AC not working - compressor not starting

GoHashiriya
 Share

Recommended Posts

darkhalf Community Regular

darkhalf

Posted
Posted
On 16/04/2022 at 7:03 PM, GTSBoy said:

Hi Matt! I still don't know exactly what Brenton ended up doing to make mine work! Never saw the final wiring diagram, then got distracted.

We just had to get the compressor output in the correct voltage range to make it happy. Can't remember how we did that. Resistors or something. Was a while ago!

  • 1 year later...
GoHashiriya Community Regular

GoHashiriya

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well here we are, a year later and my AC has depleted again. I refilled it back in Feb only for it to lose refrigerant a month later. Luckily, as recommended by others on here, I added dye this time around and, whilst using a UV light, have found traces of semen dye around the compressor connector. I'm going to get a rebuilt compressor whilst I'm in there, seeing as they're cheapish in JP. 

Now, my question is, how difficult is it to remove the AC compressor? any special tools needed? from looking at other cars I've seen you need to disconnect the pipe that runs to the cabin, then a couple around the compressor. probably the intake pipe too - engine is stock. 

Yes, yes I know, cannot vent it to atmosphere. I don't know the regs in Japan but it's probably incomprehendible anyway. The system is most likely empty by now as it's been over a month since the AC pressure switch was triggered. 

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
35 minutes ago, GoHashiriya said:

Well here we are, a year later and my AC has depleted again. I refilled it back in Feb only for it to lose refrigerant a month later. Luckily, as recommended by others on here, I added dye this time around and, whilst using a UV light, have found traces of semen dye around the compressor connector. I'm going to get a rebuilt compressor whilst I'm in there, seeing as they're cheapish in JP. 

Now, my question is, how difficult is it to remove the AC compressor? any special tools needed? from looking at other cars I've seen you need to disconnect the pipe that runs to the cabin, then a couple around the compressor. probably the intake pipe too - engine is stock. 

Yes, yes I know, cannot vent it to atmosphere. I don't know the regs in Japan but it's probably incomprehendible anyway. The system is most likely empty by now as it's been over a month since the AC pressure switch was triggered. 

Shrug, I would vacuum it anyways just in case but yeah most likely it has all vented out anyways. HA section of the R34 manual details how to remove it, doesn't appear to be anything crazy but it will almost certainly be annoying anyways because Nissan. Expect to remove power steering bits in the way, also the intake piping. I would be surprised if you have to remove the AC lines at all, should be able to disconnect much closer to the compressor and call it good. You may want to flush the system if you've had a leak and replace the receiver/drier as well.

  • Like 1
GoHashiriya Community Regular

GoHashiriya

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 5/12/2023 at 4:16 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Shrug, I would vacuum it anyways just in case but yeah most likely it has all vented out anyways. HA section of the R34 manual details how to remove it, doesn't appear to be anything crazy but it will almost certainly be annoying anyways because Nissan. Expect to remove power steering bits in the way, also the intake piping. I would be surprised if you have to remove the AC lines at all, should be able to disconnect much closer to the compressor and call it good. You may want to flush the system if you've had a leak and replace the receiver/drier as well.

Thanks for the input. Couldn't find anything regarding removing the compressor in the HA section but it seems fairly straightforward.

EDIT: got it. It's in the HA section of the Japanese manual for me, not in the english one. 

Edited by GoHashiriya
typo
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, GoHashiriya said:

Does anybody know what oil I can use, and the quantity for the AC system/compressor only?

The FSM says "use DH-PR for the compressor oil" other sources are saying PAG 100.

https://ithurukaramu.lk/2020/02/14/lubricants-for-air-conditioning-and-refrigeration/

Looks like DH-PR is PAG 100. If the compressor is dry reference the underhood sticker or look up a picture of one online to figure out how much oil you need to add.

  • Like 1
GoHashiriya Community Regular

GoHashiriya

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

https://ithurukaramu.lk/2020/02/14/lubricants-for-air-conditioning-and-refrigeration/

Looks like DH-PR is PAG 100. If the compressor is dry reference the underhood sticker or look up a picture of one online to figure out how much oil you need to add.

Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Sorry, are coilovers ACTUALLY ILLEGAL in NSW? They aren't in Vic, as long as they retain 70% of stock travel and the car is above 100mm off the ground. Does NSW actually have a law making coilovers actually illegal? RWC/Blue Slip/Engineering people not knowing the actual f**king laws boils my blood. Demand them to point to the documentation that states a coilover is illegal. (it may exist in NSW )
    • PranK
      Blue slip

      By PranK · Posted

    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      But seriously, can we ask for the results of the "tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank" experiment?
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Blue slip

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
×
×
  • Create New...