Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I know the title doesn't make much sense but to keep it short I received my 1991 cefiro rb26 swapped and it had a Prius battery. I'm assuming this was so the dealer didn't have to swap terminals but the car would have random times where it didn't want to start.  Prius battery CCA's are not in spec so I decided to change the battery to a 51RPLT. I used what the parts store had and the list of battery's wasn't available.   I am under the impression that it shouldn't matter. However after I started it with this battery a dull knock had started.   I drove it a short distance and it would go away with revs but come back at idle.    I did notice the idle rpm is ~1100 before the battery change it was at ~900. Obviously there's alot to support the battery change as the issue. Would there be anything else that would cause this?

 

Deeper information

Engine was swapped 6k km ago. R32 26 stripped the oil pump so I'm pretty familiar with metal on metal noise. R33 26 is in now, has been good for the 6k kms with the other battery.  Spark plugs, water pump, oil pump, hks timing belt, theremostat all changed with the r33 engine. Supposed to have around 40k km on it. No shavings in the oil, oil level good doesn't burn any, temps are always cool. We did have a stint with bad coil packs idk if the ones we swapped were good but our problem with miss fires did go away. It's had 3 oil changes only with oem filters. I was so worried about doing everything right seems I may have still not done enough. Pretty heartbreaking. Ecu appears to be a stock 26 ecu. Car does pop a flame every once in a while but I equated that to the aftermarket exhaust.

I am gonna try and get the Prius battery again but idk if I can trust another RB if the bottom end is out. Just alittle too convenient that it came with the battery change. Gonna check spark plugs and ohm read coil packs and lastly a compression test if all else fails.

 

Any ideas or trouble shooting I can do would help.

I can't see it being the battery or the process of changing the battery as the cause.

I would suggest getting it up on a hoist and listening to the engine with a stethoscope, to try to find what this knock is and where it is.

The only ECU related thing that could have happened is that removing power from the ECU will clear some learned trims. But that really shouldn't affect anything that would lead to an engine noise, or change in idle rpm.

Some people claim there is no such thing as a coincidence. I'm pretty sure that there are coincidences. This could be one.

I would not trust any used engine with "40k km mileage" without opening it up and measuring everything and inspecting for damage in critical regions and a major overhaul. Your battery can't cause a bottom-end knock. RBs in general seem to attract a lot of questionable mechanics at least in the US that are used to doing sloppy work. There's a reason why YouTubers are able to buy two cars with RB26s that snap a cam and start crank walking an engine that is not known for such issues. Any new car design within the last 20 years is going to be even more sensitive to improper maintenance/repair than an R-chassis.

Use a stethoscope or something similar to narrow down where the noise is coming from. If you know it's from the bottom-end shut it down and stop doing damage to the engine. If you've spun a bearing every second the engine runs raises the risk that it's beyond saving. Don't waste your time buying a new battery to see if that changes anything. The only way it could be the battery is if you somehow flipped the terminals and destroyed the electronics but it somehow still barely runs.

I know this is tough to hear but unfortunately this is just how it goes with cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...