Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would need some help to install the factory bumper mesh back into the factory bumper of an R33 GT-R.

I can't seem to figure out how to install the top of the mesh. Does the upper part belong on the inside or outside of the bumper?

Help, preferable with pictures would be greatly appreciated. image.gif.99940317c684bb0568e3701129861841.gif😀

The mesh definitely goes inside the bumper. I don't know how the 33 one is attached but in the 32 the mesh is held by clips which go behind the mesh, biting into plastic teeth that are moulded into the bumper. After 30+ years those teeth may be gone and you'll have to use cable ties like everyone else...

Yes but what about the upper part? There's one metal clip where a bolt goes through that needs to be attached there. And than there's 3 bolts going through the bumper onto bumper bar (chassis) which is combined with the number plate holder.

https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bcnr33/3934-rb26dett/body/620/?full=620-_002

So really not sure anymore of the top of the mesh needs to be on the inside or outside of the bumper.

On 8/5/2022 at 2:26 PM, gibsonneke said:

Yes but what about the upper part? There's one metal clip where a bolt goes through that needs to be attached there. And than there's 3 bolts going through the bumper onto bumper bar (chassis) which is combined with the number plate holder.

https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bcnr33/3934-rb26dett/body/620/?full=620-_002

So really not sure anymore of the top of the mesh needs to be on the inside or outside of the bumper.

I pulled the metal clip you're describing up and over the middle bolt that goes through the license plate and into the bumper. Seems to work ok.

On 06/08/2022 at 2:06 AM, joshuaho96 said:

I pulled the metal clip you're describing up and over the middle bolt that goes through the license plate and into the bumper. Seems to work ok.

Hmmmm, doesn't make much sense in my head. So the mesh is actually between the license plate holder and bumper or in between the bumper and bumper support? Do you have a picture?

On 8/6/2022 at 3:48 AM, gibsonneke said:

Hmmmm, doesn't make much sense in my head. So the mesh is actually between the license plate holder and bumper or in between the bumper and bumper support? Do you have a picture?

I don’t know how it’s actually set up from the factory. My license plate holder was missing when imported. My middle license plate bolt is broken off inside the bumper. The usual old car problems. The mesh is fully behind the bumper, and the top clip I hooked it over the end of the middle bolt, if someone actually knows how it’s supposed to be from the factory I’d like to know.

6038AC62-10A9-4D9B-8975-9D31DF739617.thumb.jpeg.5e878bec68f0f44d9598512c8c38ba5d.jpeg

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
×
×
  • Create New...