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When you changed across, did you re-use the factory oil return pipe? I thought there was a physical difference between factory and garret cores, which is why these exist: https://justjap.com/products/xtr-turbo-oil-drain-adapter-garrett-t28 

If it fitted up fine, I can only suggest pulling the oil drain again (real pain) and checking the gasket and mating surfaces

Thanks Duncan.

I did re-use the factory line and it seemed to fit fine - the heat wrap was butted up against the compressor housing (as with the OEM turbo) but I did not have to force anything. The rear turbo oil return pipe is not leaking maybe because it is a different shape?

I've resigned  my self to checking the gasket and mating surfaces as you suggest. Is it possible to do this without removing the turbo? I seem to remember having to fit the return pipe before the oil & water feed pipes so I don't know whether I will be able to drop return pipe enough to either slide in a new gasket or view the mating surfaces.

If you're using paper gaskets one thing you could try is spraying this copper spray on a new gasket after cleaning off the oil to see if that improves things: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-high-temp-sealant-12-oz/

I only suggest this if it's less effort to slide a paper gasket in there somehow instead of possibly pulling apart most of the turbo support infrastructure to replace the return pipe and gasket.

Sorry to say, it is very difficult to get the hose off with the turbo in place because the 2 hard lines don't have much gap between them, it is highly likely to split the rubber hose. Unfortunately taking the turbo off will be easiest.

 

Thanks Duncan.

Based on my experience of removing the OEM turbo I think it may be possible to remove the rubber hose - I'm just not sure if I will be able to either remove the metal oil return pipe or drop it enough to replace the gasket.

I guess I might as well try this first if I have to remove the turbo anyway. It would just be nice to know it is possible before I try 🙂

 

34 minutes ago, proline said:

Thanks for the suggestion Joshuaho96.

That gasket sealant has temperature range of a max of 260 deg centigrade - would this be high enough for a turbo oil return flange?

It's not directly exposed to exhaust gas temperatures and it's presumably carrying a bunch of oil in it so that will help bring temps closer to 100C. So it should be fine. If you have to pull everything apart anyways you can verify you have the right pipe, make sure both flanges are flat, then use this sealant on top of a clean/flat/new/etc gasket to try and give it the best odds of sealing properly. Also worth mentioning that this copper spray sealant is probably not great to breathe in, make sure to use outdoors like rattlecan and use some cardboard to catch overspray.

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