Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

Does anyone know the process of registering an engine swapped car in NSW? Provided the engine swap and all mods have been fully certified and I have an engineers certificate, what are the next steps to follow, to register the car?

A quick google search says to change the engine details of my car with Service NSW?, i need the following - 

  • your proof of identity
  • your current registration details
  • one of the following:
  1. a Vehicle Compliance Certificate (if applicable)
  2. AUVIS (unregistered vehicle inspection report)
  3. HVAIS (heavy vehicle unregistered vehicle inspection report and heavy vehicle safety check inspection report)
  • the PDF form – 'Change of Records'.

Does anyone have experience doing this?

Are these the proper steps to follow?

Just take the documents and head into Service NSW?

Any ideas on fees associated with the process?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I guess the questions we need to ask first are;

  • Is the vehicle currently unregistered?
  • Has the engine swap already been done?
  • Do you own this vehicle?
  • Or are you proposing to buy it with an existing engine swap and also currently unregistered?

The answers to these questions will describe the shape of the hole you're digging for yourself.

My understanding, if it is currently NSW registered is you need the blue slip to update the rego.

If not registered you need all the doco to establish a new rego - blue slip, pink slip, import approval, weighbridge slip, proof of ownership etc. AFAIK any engineer report is required for the blue slip, not establishing the rego

30 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I guess the questions we need to ask first are;

  • Is the vehicle currently unregistered?
  • Has the engine swap already been done?
  • Do you own this vehicle?
  • Or are you proposing to buy it with an existing engine swap and also currently unregistered?

The answers to these questions will describe the shape of the hole you're digging for yourself.

Currently registered. 

Engine bought, swapping to commence soon.

I am the owner.

 

9 minutes ago, Duncan said:

My understanding, if it is currently NSW registered is you need the blue slip to update the rego.

If not registered you need all the doco to establish a new rego - blue slip, pink slip, import approval, weighbridge slip, proof of ownership etc. AFAIK any engineer report is required for the blue slip, not establishing the rego

That's what my understanding is as well.

As mentioned before, Service NSW says that to update the rego i need either a Vehicle Compliance Certificate (if applicable) aka Engineers Cert, AUVIS (unregistered vehicle inspection report) or a HVAIS (heavy vehicle unregistered vehicle inspection report and heavy vehicle safety check inspection report). 

I will get it engineered either way, so my understanding is, in terms of documentation, I just need an Engineers Report, a filled Change of records form and fees to "re-register" it. 

Car is still registered so technically its just a change or records aye?

And if it goes out of rego, according to their website ill need either one of those three things mentioned above to register it?

30 minutes ago, Duncan said:

My understanding, if it is currently NSW registered is you need the blue slip to update the rego.

https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/transaction/change-vehicles-engine-details

According to them, only need a Engineers Certificate or Blue slip.

So since i will be getting engineers cert, wont need the Blue Slip aye?

My reading and understanding is that because it is already registered, Service NSW just need a blue slip with the new details (engine number etc). 

You need to check with the blue slip station on what they need, that is probably where the engineer's info comes in.

This can't be answered correctly without knowing what engine is going into what car. 

Some engine swaps cannot be registered, some swaps will require engineer certification (+blue slip), some engine swaps will be blue slip only. You always need a blue slip, that's how the records are updated on the system with the new engine number etc. 

  • Like 1
26 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

This can't be answered correctly without knowing what engine is going into what car. 

Some engine swaps cannot be registered, some swaps will require engineer certification (+blue slip), some engine swaps will be blue slip only. You always need a blue slip, that's how the records are updated on the system with the new engine number etc. 

Putting a 6.0l LY76 from a newer 2009 VE Calais into a 2003 Nissan Skyline V35, which came with a 3.5L VQ35DE. Engineer says its doable and can be engineered provided it passes emissions and brake tests etc. That's all the contact I've had with him

Would I still need a blue slip if its engineered? Wont an engineers cert be a more through inspection, compared to a blue slip?

34 minutes ago, nitznair said:

Putting a 6.0l LY76 from a newer 2009 VE Calais into a 2003 Nissan Skyline V35, which came with a 3.5L VQ35DE. Engineer says its doable and can be engineered provided it passes emissions and brake tests etc. That's all the contact I've had with him

Would I still need a blue slip if its engineered? Wont an engineers cert be a more through inspection, compared to a blue slip?

I don't know why you're so hung up on this blue slip thing. It's like a $40 piece of administrative paperwork and 30 minutes of your time. 

You are going to go through hell getting the car certified, I'd be more worried about that. (I'm not saying it won't be certified, but it is not a fun process and is bloody expensive and time consuming). 

9 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

I don't know why you're so hung up on this blue slip thing. It's like a $40 piece of administrative paperwork and 30 minutes of your time. 

You are going to go through hell getting the car certified, I'd be more worried about that. (I'm not saying it won't be certified, but it is not a fun process and is bloody expensive and time consuming). 

If the Blue Slip is an easy enough thing to get, then am not too bothered about it now. I'd like to have a fair idea of whats required so i can make plans to get them done, and have the paperwork ready. If i can save 30mins of my time and $40 in the process, then why not lol.

According to what i've read, the hardest thing to pass with engineering is emissions. That's what everyone fails at least once. Most engineers say if its a straight engine/tranny/diff sway from one car to another, then its not too hard to certify (which mine is). Getting bigger brakes is another thing, which my car already has. 

A to Z imports will be handling all the Engineering and Emissions stuff - https://www.atozimports.com.au/

Also this is what service NSW says about registering a modified vehicle

image.thumb.jpeg.45ea18d48093942d892141ab43959f7a.jpeg

 

11 minutes ago, nitznair said:

If the Blue Slip is an easy enough thing to get, then am not too bothered about it now. I'd like to have a fair idea of whats required so i can make plans to get them done, and have the paperwork ready. If i can save 30mins of my time and $40 in the process, then why not lol.

According to what i've read, the hardest thing to pass with engineering is emissions. That's what everyone fails at least once. Most engineers say if its a straight engine/tranny/diff sway from one car to another, then its not too hard to certify (which mine is). Getting bigger brakes is another thing, which my car already has. 

A to Z imports will be handling all the Engineering and Emissions stuff - https://www.atozimports.com.au/

Also this is what service NSW says about registering a modified vehicle

image.thumb.jpeg.45ea18d48093942d892141ab43959f7a.jpeg

 

The people who fail emissions testing are the people that don't treat it as something that needs to be addressed as its own thing. People turn up with their modified cars, as they intent to run them on the street, and then unsurprisingly fail.

If you have the correct spec cat(s) and correct tune you'll pass first go. Are you able to use the factory ECU for this swap?

Also have you 100% locked in everything with your engineer, as in all the mods it will have and locked in a price? I've seen quotes blow out like crazy and plenty of engineers playing the 'oh actually, just change this little thing and bring it back game' next minute your bill is $2,500. 

Step 1. Engage engineer, pay for initial inspection and their guidelines about what you want done then wait for the reply, will cost you a bit

Step 2. Do what the engineer says

Step 3. Get the engineer to inspect and hopefully sign it off, will cost you a bit

Step 4. RMS, you are putting a larger non Nissan engine in, so it will need all the bells and whistles IRT safety and emissions testing, will cost a little

Step 5. RMS papers work and rego stuff, will cost not alot

Step 5. Skids

  • Like 2
10 minutes ago, The Bogan said:

Step 1. Engage engineer, pay for initial inspection and their guidelines about what you want done then wait for the reply, will cost you a bit

Step 2. Do what the engineer says

Step 3. Get the engineer to inspect and hopefully sign it off, will cost you a bit

Step 4. RMS, you are putting a larger non Nissan engine in, so it will need all the bells and whistles IRT safety and emissions testing, will cost a little

Step 5. RMS papers work and rego stuff, will cost not alot

Step 5. Skids

Almost perfect list. 

Small correction, the emissions testing needs to be done before the engineer can sign off the car. They are certifying that the car meats the Australian Design Regulations based on it's year of construction, they will need to view the emissions printout to be satisfied that this is the case. 

I agree, skids are an important part of the engineering and registration process. 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
20 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

The people who fail emissions testing are the people that don't treat it as something that needs to be addressed as its own thing. People turn up with their modified cars, as they intent to run them on the street, and then unsurprisingly fail.

If you have the correct spec cat(s) and correct tune you'll pass first go. Are you able to use the factory ECU for this swap?

Also have you 100% locked in everything with your engineer, as in all the mods it will have and locked in a price? I've seen quotes blow out like crazy and plenty of engineers playing the 'oh actually, just change this little thing and bring it back game' next minute your bill is $2,500. 

Bought the newest Euro 6 Cats for the build. According to what I've read, i need to pass the emissions standards of the year of my car's manufacture date,which is 2003. My car came with Euro 3 standard cats. The L76 engine came with Euro 4 cats. So my cats are solid. Yes ill be using the Calais stock ECU with a custom wiring loom from the states, to ensure all the stock gauges etc work. Will be doing the swap and an "emissions friendly" tune before i do engineering. Engineer will be consulted before i do any mods. 

Engineering at A to Z motorsports will cost $900-$2100 max, according to them. I've set aside $2500 for this. If it exceeds this amount, am f'ed 🤣💵

  • Like 1
35 minutes ago, The Bogan said:

Step 1. Engage engineer, pay for initial inspection and their guidelines about what you want done then wait for the reply, will cost you a bit

Step 2. Do what the engineer says

Step 3. Get the engineer to inspect and hopefully sign it off, will cost you a bit

Step 4. RMS, you are putting a larger non Nissan engine in, so it will need all the bells and whistles IRT safety and emissions testing, will cost a little

Step 5. RMS papers work and rego stuff, will cost not alot

Step 5. Skids

Thanks bro! 

haha well you've already put aside the $2,500 that I mentioned, I hope you still have quite a bit of change left. Fingers crossed!

I expect that you will pass emissions first go. Yes you are correct, the standards that you need to meet are based on the year the vehicle was manufactured. It sounds like you've got all your ducks lined up which is good. 

29 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

haha well you've already put aside the $2,500 that I mentioned, I hope you still have quite a bit of change left. Fingers crossed!

I expect that you will pass emissions first go. Yes you are correct, the standards that you need to meet are based on the year the vehicle was manufactured. It sounds like you've got all your ducks lined up which is good. 

Hahahaha, thanks for the encouraging words mate. I did a fair bit of research online and asked around before i jumped into this. The whole swap if registered successfully, will definitely be unique. One of a kind in NSW 😉. A to Z do all testing in house. They use the dyno method to test emissions. Even if it fails, they will know what needs to be done, to pass it. Also they're based in QLD, so they dont seem too expensive or "strict" like the lot back here in Shitney 🤣

I would have gone RB or 2JZ swap but the engines are older than the chassis, therefore harder to engineer. I am essentially putting a newer engine into an older car with the L76. 

Once engineering is done and i have paperwork in hand then nobody needs to know if the car gets cammed or something 😉😉🤣🤣🤣

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
    • Hi Everyone I am from West Pennant Hills in NSW. Been too busy until recently to attend to my RB25DET Series 2 engine until recently. I am planning to stick it into the S15 shell at this stage, unless a nice SR20DET turns up... For now, i am going to try and get the RB25 running and working well then decide what gearbox to use. My preference is to retain the SR20DET  6 speed gearbox and tail shaft to retain as much and least modifications as i can avoid. I am an old guy and won't be doing any heavy drifting so i don't need a bullet proof gearbox Does anyone have experience with starting the RB on a stand? I got everything setup as much as I can with the info i can find... endless searching and videos on Youtube I would be great to get some pointers Cheers Songo
    • Hey all, Recently have had my s1 r33 gtr serviced and noticed my coolant reservoir was topped up to the max line. Took the car out for 1 yesterday and noticed today the reservoir is completely empty.  Any ideas? Radiator is full
×
×
  • Create New...