Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All! 

I know their is threads about this topic but I can’t seem to find one about what’s happening to my HR34 Skyline.

 

Basically Brake Lights are on when the car is turned Off even when a new brake switch Rubber is Installed.

When I press on the brake I hear a little clicking noise like a relay sound where the Automatic Shifter is located. 
 

have anyone experienced it before?  I would like some advice before I take all my trims apart to find a relay? 
 

thank you! 

4 hours ago, Seefou said:

Hey All! 

I know their is threads about this topic but I can’t seem to find one about what’s happening to my HR34 Skyline.

 

Basically Brake Lights are on when the car is turned Off even when a new brake switch Rubber is Installed.

When I press on the brake I hear a little clicking noise like a relay sound where the Automatic Shifter is located. 
 

have anyone experienced it before?  I would like some advice before I take all my trims apart to find a relay? 
 

thank you! 

The sound you're hearing is the shift interlock device. You have to press the brake to shift out of park. There is a stop lamp switch in addition to the little rubber grommet. Test the switch and see if it's working as intended. A new one is pretty cheap.

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

The sound you're hearing is the shift interlock device. You have to press the brake to shift out of park. There is a stop lamp switch in addition to the little rubber grommet. Test the switch and see if it's working as intended. A new one is pretty cheap.

The Stop lamp switch, Are you referring to the brake light switch?
 

I removed the wire connected to the switch and the lights are still on.

I will put the volt meter tomorrow and try it on.

But how is the power getting through even when unplugged? 

im trying to find a wiring diagram but unfortunately I can’t. 

5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The click won't be a relay. The click will likely just be in the pivot/spring of the pedal.

The switch is likely collapsed. Break out the multimeter and fault-find.

I tried taking off every 10a fuse to see if lights will turn off but it was a no go. Tried both fuse box. 
 

I unplugged the wire from the switch and the lights was still on. 
 

im wondering if possibly there is a relay that might be stuck and always open? 

1 hour ago, Seefou said:

I unplugged the wire from the switch and the lights was still on. 

So, start at the brake lamp itself, probe the loom with the multimeter, follow the wiring back until you find where the power is getting into it.

If you have disconnected the spot from whence the power is supposed to come, and you still have power, then the power is likely coming in from a spot with damaged insulation in the loom.

There is no relay.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

So, start at the brake lamp itself, probe the loom with the multimeter, follow the wiring back until you find where the power is getting into it.

If you have disconnected the spot from whence the power is supposed to come, and you still have power, then the power is likely coming in from a spot with damaged insulation in the loom.

There is no relay.

Excellent thank you! Will definitely wake up early and start there! 

The great news is lights turn off when Unplugged from the lamp. 

but it’s weird that id doesn’t turn off when you take out the Tail Fuse from the fuse box.

wondering if by having the break lights on for who knows how long until it drained my battery, sometimes melted in the circuit? 

I guess there’s no choice but following the wire 😅 I’ll keep you updated. 
 

9 minutes ago, Duncan said:

or for that matter, the fog lights.

Every lights are off, I also took out the fuses and the Brake lights was still on. 
 

I unplugged the Brake stopper switch and their was still power to the lights. 
 

I unplugged the lights directly and it turned off. 
 

so the question I should ask my self is is it just wires from lamp to brake switch or theirs something else in the circuit that is related? 
 

the only weird thing is when I removed the fuse for the Tail lamp the lights was still on 🤷🏻‍♂️

15 minutes ago, Seefou said:

so the question I should ask my self is is it just wires from lamp to brake switch or theirs something else in the circuit that is related? 
 

the only weird thing is when I removed the fuse for the Tail lamp the lights was still on 🤷🏻‍♂️

You shouldn't ask these questions. You should instead open up the wiring diagram and follow the circuits. You will see that the tail light fuse has nothing to do with the brake lights. You will see that the brake lights are their own thing.

The other thing to remember is that typically, such circuits in cars are supplied with 12V out at the load itself and that 12V comes all the way back to the switch and the switch connects to ground when closed. This we call "earth switching". The power is not "supplied" by the switch. Power is always available. The switch gives earth to the circuit.

But this is where you really need the wiring diagram, because not all circuits in cars are earth side switched, and a novice can very easily get very confused.

  • Like 1

Now it makes more sens in my head. I was getting confused. Thank you for lighting things up for me.

I’ve been trying to find the wiring diagram since last week but unfortunately haven’t find anything online. 

They've been posted on these and other forums before. The R34 and R33 workshop manuals also have useful wiring diagrams.

Have a look at

https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

https://www.scribd.com/doc/5332929/Nissan-Skyline-R34-Workshop-Manual-English

 

Even the R32 GTR wiring diagram, that I have scanned and posted on here, will help, because the circuit for the brake lights is probably all same same. Wire colours, fuse numbers, etc, will possibly be different. But at least you can look at it to see how things are laid out.

 

  • Like 3
19 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

They've been posted on these and other forums before. The R34 and R33 workshop manuals also have useful wiring diagrams.

Have a look at

https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

https://www.scribd.com/doc/5332929/Nissan-Skyline-R34-Workshop-Manual-English

 

Even the R32 GTR wiring diagram, that I have scanned and posted on here, will help, because the circuit for the brake lights is probably all same same. Wire colours, fuse numbers, etc, will possibly be different. But at least you can look at it to see how things are laid out.

 

You are awesome!

Thank you so much!

I needed this so much! 🙏🏼 

  • 4 weeks later...

Update!!! I feel dumb but hey it’s fixed! 😄

so after many weeks and all of research for a wiring diagram, having bad weather and being busy it helped me to not take the interior a part to find the issue lol! Luckily! 

I met someone named Michael he said to me since it’s a Automatic transmission you have two switch.

one for the shift lock and one for the brake light.

so guess what!! 

I changed the rubber on the shift lock switch that is right beside the brake light switch. 

both have fallen a part and me well, I thought their was only one switch 😅
 

Green arrow is where I changed the rubber and the Red Arrow is where I completely failed to noticed. 

 

 

34E67553-AFB4-4CB1-AD76-01EC2E21A81F.jpeg

98FDE458-E1E7-48B6-B119-297B6D4DF2FB.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • UPDATE: Yes the GSP Axles are compatible. I installed it on my R34 today and they are working a treat! Turns out that the S13, S14, S15, and 200 SX all used the same axles as the HR34, and ER34 NA models. Which is 2 bolt x 3 pairs.  
    • Also build this EH ute with 370z motor and gearbox with a couple of turbos just for fun.  
    • Got the passenger door on plus the master cylinder and booster. Loaded up to take it home. At home, the colour changes a lot in the light.
    • Nothing cheap, but I have seen the AC Hydraulic DK13HLQ which is pretty close to what you're asking for. The problem is the hydraulic cylinder mandates that the back of the jack be a certain height and Skylines have fairly deep inset floor jack points. A more certain and cheap option is to get some nominal 2x10 inch lumber boards and have one board be 1.5 feet, the other board 3 feet. Glue it all together with lots of clamps to maintain pressure. Make two of these. The ramp suggested above is a good idea, it takes quite a bit of clutch slip to get over each of the boards. I only need the first ~1.5 inches for my low profile jack on a standard ride height car but a lowered car you want to go up to the full ~3-3.5 inches. Paint it or store indoors if you want it to last.
    • Ok. And Nistune? I read (here too) mainly on Stagea threads that it can by "turn off" with Nistune. But they say they still had the sensor plug in. Next week iam going to the Nistune(and other ECUs) tuner so i can finally make it work. I drove the car home and apart from the cut it drove great. No misfire no smoke no hesitation or rough start...so hoping it is this sensor that is missing  
×
×
  • Create New...