Jump to content
SAU Community

Mobil 1 v Motul engine oils.

P1E

By P1E,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 83
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

Ok here's something that I have only discovered recently. This is to do with my motorcycle, but since oil is meant to remain as consistent as possible between changes I think it can apply to a certain extent to cars. The main difference between my bike and car is the operating temps, as the bike has no turbo.

In the past I have been changing the oil in my bike every 3000km (factory specifies 6000km). However at between 1000-2500km, I noticed the (wet) clutch grabbing significantly more than when the oil was fresh. To me that means the oil friction properties have changed, because the oil is now allowing the clutch to slip differently than when the oil is fresh. Even though this means the clutch is slipping more, I fail to see how the oil could be getting BETTER over time. Oils break down in engines, they don't get better.

This happened across the board no matter what oil I was using, and I noticed that the "cheaper" oils would do it earlier than the more expensive ones. The oils I used in the bike in order of worst to best are:

Castrol Formula R 5W-30

Castrol Formula R 10W-60

Shell synthetic 10W-40 (designed for motorcycles)

Motul semi-synth 15W-50 (designed for motorcycles)

Mobil 1 5W-50

Fuchs synthetic 5W-50

Motul semi-synth Turbolite 10W-40

The weirdest thing here is that the oils designed for motorcycles are only average at best. The reason I tried car oils is because I read a review on the net saying that motorcycle oils aren't necessarily better for bikes. The most surprising thing is the Turbolite oil I've got listed at the end there, which I used for the first time in my most recent oil change. I accidentally missed my usual 3000km oil change because I was waiting for the clutch to slip to know when I should start paying attention to the odometer (I have to push a button to cycle it between the trip meter). But it's still working exactly the same as when the oil was new, after 3500km. Because of that I'm going to see if it can do the full 6000km without having to change the oil.

I don't get it. A cheap semi-synth is better than a full synth costing 50% more? I also don't understand why Motul have a car oil that's better in a bike than their bike oil. Just marketing at work I guess. I still use the more expensive 5W-50 8100 full synth Motul in the Skyline, but mostly because the turbo runs a lot hotter and I think a semi-synth will break down too quickly because of that.

Anyway I'm sold on Motul. I don't see any need to buy other brands again, unless Motul changes their formula for the worse.

JXL Rising Star

JXL

Posted
Posted

I haven't seen it mentioned but can i bring Castrol Magnatec into the equation? The promoted stuff about it reducing all that engine wear at start up etc. its viscus rating aswell is 10W so pretty low.

I see many of you are mentioned how the oils suck up all the dirt and carbon which causes it to go black so basically reducing the engine wear which magnatec says it does.

anyone got any results?

i have used Mobil 1 before and didn't really notice the difference between taht and castrol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...