Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pic 1 fan:

what is this fan for ? stock intercooler?

it is currently disconnected, car has a front mount intercooler.

 

pic 2  brackets:

two brackets by pass side strut tower

what are these for?

 

pic 3 intake hole/capped hose:

there is a hoses capped and large hole/ plate missing? on back of intake pipe next to throttle body

what is the hose suppose to be connected to and what is this plate missing?

 

pic 4 5 and 6 hood prop rod :

hood prop rod is not bent, but doesn't line up with clips to hold it, it hits

something electric sensor? that is on a bracket, what's not correct here?

I would also assume there suppose to be a prop rod bushing?

 

pic 7 brake line brackets:

where can one find the upper rear vertical brackets for brake lines, both are broke one front missing

 

thanks

20231209_013514.jpg

20231209_013546.jpg

20231209_013917.jpg

20231210_104141.jpg

20231209_013557.jpg

20231209_013702.jpg

20231209_114445.jpg

Edited by JC71
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485139-under-the-hood-questions-er34/
Share on other sites

Air con condensor fan.

Not sure about the brackets. They're not the same on the 32. Possibly for tank breather lines.

Traction control motor/throttle body. Hoses? Can't tell.

External air temp sensor for the climate control. And yes, bushing.

Dunno about the brake brackets. Probably NLA.

 

where is the External air temp sensor for the climate control originally mounted?

 

# 3 pic : this blank opening is on the back side of intake piping, just before the throttle body, throttle position sensor?

https://tfaspeed.com/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtt-rb25-neo-tps-throttle-valve-switch

the hose that is plugged come right off the bottom edge of the bov, I believe.

 

 

Edited by JC71
12 minutes ago, JC71 said:

where is the External air temp sensor for the climate control originally mounted?

Again, on an R34, I don't know exactly. But somwhere around there. We all relocate them to clear intercoolers, oil coolers, etc.

14 minutes ago, JC71 said:

# 3 pic : this blank opening is on the back side of intake piping, just before the throttle body, throttle position sensor?

No. The actual TPS is on the actual throttlebody, which is of course, further along at the plenum inlet. It's on the opposite side of the crossover pipe from the throttle cable and bell crank that you can see in your pic #3.

The RWD turbo Neos have an additional ECU (actually, TCS ECU) controlled throttlebody where that blank opening is on yours, for the traction control system.

alright, so some came from Nissan, wide open like this, or was there a plate there originally?

so I can put a plate over this opening, and it wont or currently effect anything by not having it connected or open/closed?

and I would assume the Air con condenser fan will have to be connected in order for the a/c system to function correctly, I would assume its controlled by a temp sensor or such, I will look to see if hopefully its just been unplugged and I can track it down, other wise where does it wire to?

Edited by JC71
34 minutes ago, JC71 said:

alright, so some came from Nissan, wide open like this, or was there a plate there originally?

so I can put a plate over this opening, and it wont or currently effect anything by not having it connected or open/closed?

I have never seen a turbo crossover pipe casting without the TCS TB in place. Your photo does not do enough to show what is actually going on. That oblique angle does not tell me if that mounting point for the TCS TPS is open to the pipe or not not. If it is open, then someone has removed the TCS throttle, motor and TPS, etc. And yes, you will have to close it up somehow. If there are no penetrations on either the front or the rear of the crossover pipe, then you don't have to do anything. But as I said - I've never seen a casting with the mounts that doesn't have the TCS parts.

The Stageas had the same motor, but because they were AWD, they don't have TCS. So they have a different crossover pipe.

The air con will work without the fan - as in, it will run. It won't work well in hot stop-start traffic though. The fan is there to get some air moving across the condensor.

Yes, the wiring loom/plug for it is supposed to be within reach of the fan's own plug. If it's nearby, you'll find it. If it has been f**ked off, no-one can help you.

You really should look at the service manual. There are lots of diagrams.

The hose near the BOV has nothing to do with the BOV. It is probably the sense line for the Neo's boost sensor, which is usually mounted on the back end of the coil cover there, next to the purge solenoid. All this is shown inn the DRAWINGS that I keep referring you to.

The hoses near the battery look like someone's bodge. No-one can know what some wanker in the past has done.

did some google searching, and it appears alot of these rb25det neo from Stagea's have nothing in that TCS opening.

as far as that hose next to the bov, I found this pic and it is showing this hose, it has two short sections and a inline valve? or something, but did not find pic showing where it connects to.

as far as i can tell the hose that goes to the boost sensor is off the back of the top section of the intake.

as far as the Drawings you keep referring to, where can one get those?

 

 

 

s-l1600 (1).png

Edited by JC71
5 hours ago, JC71 said:

as far as that hose next to the bov, I found this pic and it is showing this hose, it has two short sections and a inline valve? or something, but did not find pic showing where it connects to.

That's a filter, and after the filter is the boost sensor. The ECU's boost sensor. Not the dash gauge boost sensor. The ECU's sensor is DEFINITELY connected to the crossover pipe. The dash gauge boost sensor is definitely connected to the plenum.

The drawings are in the R34 workshop manual (as I already said), which is freely downloadable after a brief google search.

did some google and I think I found that the two hoses by battery, must be for washer bottle, that is missing, the front outside temp sensor goes on bottom driver side edge of lower rad cross member. correct me if I'm wrong.

 

new question:

car has what looks to be the xenon style headlights,

what color are head light bulbs originally?

current outside corner lights are blue...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...