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Just throught i'd post up my brake upgrade info,

what i'm doing is using s-13 coilovers and hubs, redrilled r32 gts-t rotors and 4 spot calipars. from what i've been told by a few people who have used this method is that it will work?

started with the rotors and calipars picked them up both front and rear for $410.

next is the s-13 coilovers which i've lined up a front set of JIC ones that have just been recoed and will set me back $690.

hubs are a bit of a mystery at the moment as i'm waiting to here from a couple of people. looking like beening anywhere from $200 to $360 dont know final price yet.

this is as far as i'm at at the moment! i know what the process is but will take it step by step over the next two weeks pics of each stage will be provided..

anyone with helpful ideas....

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48517-r30r32-brake-upgrade/
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Not trying to re-direct too much,but what was the conclusion about HR31 struts into R30?

HR31's have the same 100mm caliper spacing as S13/R32,etc,so the 4 pots would bolt straight on,and the bigger discs slide straight over the hubs (after redrilling to 4stud) as they're not a single piece,as in the '30s.... Might be a cheaper way to go?

ps-are you wanting to go 4 or 5 stud hubs?

i did think about it but there not as eazy to find as a set of s-13 coilovers, i can get a set of jap spec r31 struts but they have the aus r31 rotors and calipars on them so i'm thinking there not what i'd need. i just dont want to have to import the bits..

i'll keep it 4x114.3 stud pattern

have a look in the for sale section for the going prices on the gtr bits..

got the hubs lined up yesterday for $200 so thats all the bits i need.

total has cost me $410 private sale

$690 local importer

$180 private sale

--------

$1280

theres a little bit of machining to be done to get some bolts to fit

other than that the next expence will be new pads, fingers crossed.

I have just done this myself. One thing I found is that I had to modify my strut tops to get any decent amounts of camber, as the s13's are 180 degrees out. Just elongated all 3 holes in the camber tops.

I have just sorted r32/33 brakes on to DR30 struts for a mate too all that is needed is a 10mm spacer. and hubs turned down slighty.

I have just done this myself. One thing I found is that I had to modify my strut tops to get any decent amounts of camber, as the s13's are 180 degrees out. Just elongated all 3 holes in the camber tops.  

I have just sorted r32/33 brakes on to DR30 struts for a mate too all that is needed is a 10mm spacer. and hubs turned down slighty.

any tips or things i should look out for as i've just got the coilovers and habs today?

i'm working of the info from the 910 site i think phat or someone else posted up and have posted a few questions in the forum, looks like theres no wories with the front

here is what i have so far, i have the hubs too but no pic at the moment:

i need to put the work of for now as i'm having trouble getting an auto electrican to finish the last few bits.

  • 5 weeks later...
In the future I hope to use R32 GTR bits on my DR30 . Do you know if GTR calipers use larger pistons that the GTS-T(R32) and are the pads the same . Hate to ask but what would the GTR bits cost ?

Yep the GTR calipers are much much bigger, if u hold them side by side with a GTS-t caliper you'll notice the difference hey, the GTR also uses a bigger rotor!!

I cheated, i bought Crimmo's setup hehehehe :);)

found out today my machanic is on holidays till the end of the month, so i'll get the work done when he gets back, i'm working on a +35 offset for the front to fill the gaurds got the rims allready 17" P1 racing, i've put them on the car once so far and there is a bit of a gap so i'm hoping the coilovers and s-13 hubs will sit out more...

I got the s13 set up running. using some wheels I have not sure on the offset but they are about right on a 180B and running 30mm bolt-on wheels spacers with around 3.5 degrees camber they sit flush at the top of the guards at the front and stick out a fair bit at the bottom.

I drove the car around for a day with the front wheels in the guards just and the rears almost with the rim itself in the guards with about 70mm of ground clearence to the chassis rails and a lot less for my exhaust. Looked damn tuff but I chewed out a drive shaft CV in under a day so jacked it up a good 1 1/2 inches the next day. Still sits damn low, but plenty of ground clearance for everyday driving.

My front end is now all done., sits tough on the ground, low enough to look tough, but not low enough to create attention..I've got 215/45/17's on the front and it fills the guarsd out nicely as well!! needs a bloody wheel alignment though something cronic haha!!

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