Jump to content
SAU Community

Reliable HP limit for GTS-T boxes

JustenGT4

By JustenGT4,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JustenGT4 Newbie

JustenGT4

Posted
Posted

Howdy,

I've done the usual FAQ and forum search and come up with some info but not exactly what i'm chasing.

As background i'm from the dark side with a GT4 Celica running a twin turbo lexus V8. The Supra boxes i running aren't cutting the mustard (W58) and the next step up is ugly (R154) and the step up from that is hell expensive (V160 6 speed).

The 300ZX box and R33/34 GTS-T boxes seem to be very strong so thought i may as well give them a try.

I'm looking at 350rwkw but it's the big torque from the 4lt V8 that's destroying things...guestimating 700+Nm at final tune.

So, what's the low down on these boxes or can a GTR box lose the transfer case for straight RWD use only?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48518-reliable-hp-limit-for-gts-t-boxes/
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

R33 GTST (RB25DET) gearbox is the same internally as an R32/33 GTR gearbox. We are up to 725 bhp (460 rwkw) without any problems, after having run 650 bhp for 12 months on the same gearbox.

JustenGT4 Newbie

JustenGT4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sweet, that's good to know. I'll be 100rwkw shy of what you are produced and i'm pretty sympathetic with the gear changes so looks like this type of box might meet my needs.

A couple more questions then. What would be a fair price for a box ? and is any model preferred over any other or just fine the newest i can? I have heard that a batch of R33 boxes was a bit suss but could just be web goss?

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Geez, you guys must drive soft, I've broken the 4th gear synchro in mine at only 330rwkw.

Oh dear, you really left your self open for this one.... :wassup:

Gear failure is the sign of excessive torque loading, but you had synchro failure. Any data logging analysis will tell you that is unsympathetic gear change technique. :thumbdwn: You just gotta cut out those flat changes, it's not a dog box :D

GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted

I agree I'm not sympathetic to my gearbox, but neither do I flatshift alot. Seen a few 3rd gears blown out of ND4SPD's boxes at similar power to yours. Just don't want to give the guy false hope about there strength. For a stock gearbox there brilliant, but certainly not indestructable.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
I agree I'm not sympathetic to my gearbox, but neither do I flatshift alot. Seen a few 3rd gears blown out of ND4SPD's boxes at similar power to yours. Just don't want to give the guy false hope about there strength. For a stock gearbox there brilliant, but certainly not indestructable.

All joking asside, when you say "seen a few 3rd gears blown out of ND4SPD's boxes", what do you mean exactly? We strip the teeth right off 4th gear, starts with torque loading on one or 2 teeth and then chews its way through the rest. :throwup: I have never seen a gear "out" of the box, just a bunch of mush in the bottom. :P

Fitzpatrick Speed Works Mentor

Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Posted
Posted

there are inherent design problems within the gtr box and from what i have seen from two apart boxes on a bench one a gtr and another a gtst they are a little different!!! The problem with 3rd gear in a gtr box is that nissan set the countergear on third gear 3mm too far foward so if a gear change is rushed ie. drag racing, and throw in big revs they dont ingage all the way down the spigett or cog and thus when you are loading up the gear with full power they tend to shear the teeth right off the end of the gear!!!! Its never a problem if the gear is carefull and fully engaged but this often doesnt happen in a motorsport situation or with sloppy gearchanging or flat changes!!! It doesnt help that 3rd gear is also in the middle of the stack either!!!!

JustenGT4 Newbie

JustenGT4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the debate guys,

It's a turbo V8 remember (4lt) so i won't be pulling the bigv revs you guys do. I think the syncros will be fine as i'm not having probs with those at present. It's bearings and gear sets i'm worried about and i'm not hearing horror stories about those at the hp levels i'm looking at.

Good to hear. Anyone point me in the direction of a fair price for a RWD box and any model better than any other?

rb20-calais Rising Star

rb20-calais

Posted
Posted

GTS-T boxes generally cost $1200-$1500 privately but are worth it as they are great boxes, getting one from a wrecker you may be looking at close to $2k depending on who and availability.

I picked up one in perfect condition with tailshaft and almost new extreme single plate for $900, so awesome deals can be found.

Evan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
×
×
  • Create New...