Jump to content
SAU Community

CES Split dump pipes


Recommended Posts

Guest darrinspencer

I have spoken to Custom Exhausts www.cesracing.com.au about a group buy on their split dump pipes for all 32/33 GTST and 32/33/34 GTR and Silvia

PLEASE AGREE TO THESE RULES BEFORE REGISTERING YOUR INTEREST.

1. If you say you want one, you must be prepared to pay when the time comes. I will add you to a list at the bottom of this thread.

2. Payment is required upfront before item is posted directly to CES

3. Postage or fitting costs are not included in prices quoted.

We need a total of a mixture of 10 people (GTR/GTST/SR20 silva)

Prices

$530 plain steel 32/33 GTST normally $650

$125 extra for HPC normally $150

$530 plain steel 34 GTT normally $650

$125 extra for HPC normally $150

$530 plain steel S13, S14 and S15 normally $650

$125 extra for HPC normally $150

$656 pair plain steel GTR split dumps normally $800

$128 extra for HPC pair

$425 for 'Y' pipe between dump pipes and cat, includes 3 inch flex normally $525

$130 extra for HPC

32 and 33 GTST are the same pipe

32 and 33 GTR are the same pipes, but have different O2 sensor nuts

34 GTR have similar pipes to 32/33, but have a different divider on the inlet to the dump pipes.

So please specify which type of car you have

Freight cost will be extra.

Pick-up available in Brisbane

Speaking to Trevor who owns the place power gains can be huge

GTST R33 Rb25det

Standard cars with their full exhausts and cats get 42-45 KW at the wheels

This will be similar if you already have a good cat and cat back non restrictive jap exhaust.

The power gain between a standard all in one 3 inch dump and the CES Split dump is a increase of 10-15KW at the wheels

Boost will come on 400-500 rpm quicker and produce torque much earlier making the car alot more responsive

These are Dyno proven results.

List of interested people

Darrinspencer - 33gtst HPC

WizardOZ - 33gtst HPC

Bullant47 - 33gtst HPC

Knore - 33gtst HPC

Croat ???

Race_24 - 33gtst HPC

Lindsey_34 - 33gtst plain steel 2-off

Another updateundefined

We now have 8 pipes sold

Prices will be the same as 10 or more

I will be faxing thru a list to CES of the people who want one

They currently have 4 HPC 33gtst and 2 plain steel in stock

Currently making more

Payment

Payment is to be made directly to CES via C/card or other means

Everyone is to phone them (07 3200 2333) to arrange payment

Mention this group by thru SAU and my name to get discounts (very important)

For people who can pick theirs up, CES will arrange postage at your cost

Please sort this out with them.

The group buy will remain open for other buyers for another month or 2

Thanks

Darrin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48534-ces-split-dump-pipes/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i have an r33 gtst and my car makes 187.4 rwkw with the ces double dumps and 10 punds of boost i also got a high flowed cat off him, my car picked up 30rwkw's with the ces double dumps, high flowed cat a fuel pump and 10 pounds of boost. trust me they are worth it?

Guest darrinspencer
Well if we could do a group buy for the 32 gtr then I'm definately in for a set.

I will not be going a group buy for the GTR

Someone else can have that hassle, as I own a GTST and it is no benefit to me.

You could ring direct and see what he will do.

We have had some good feedback for these dump pipes, just need some buyers :(

Not to say that you are exaggerating or anything but Skylines are a bit different. Firstly they would have done shitloads more of them and so the practice would make them better and second there is more room to move in a Skyline than a 4wd pocket rocket like yours.

My mounting bracket was slightly out but no big deal. All working fine now and shocked the operator of the dyno I was last on by my lack of mods to power ratio.

Not prob's. I understand they wouldve had more experience with skylines than GTIRs. But it was the build quality as well. Cheap tin, cheap flanges. In the long term after showing CES quailty to other exhaust shops they said it 'would do the job' but 'youll be coming back to get it replaced..'

$800 or $600. CES aint worth the trouble.

gtir-94.

If you want to discuss CES quality, do it somewhere else. Darrenspencer has gone to the trouble of organising a group buy and he sure as hell didnt do it for you to come along and trash it.

HAHAHAHA....

Blitz, PLEASE go and buy their CRAP. I have personally dealt with CES and so have 3 other people I know who are not happy at all with their product.

Congrats to whoever organised the group buy. All Im doing is commenting to others who Im sure would like to know before they fork out over $600 about my own experiences with CES quailty, not 'a mate I know' or 'a guy who I was speaking to', but MY OWN experience.

Its all about freedom of information Blitz. Do with it what you will. I was once suckered into a 'group buy' with CES and got burnt for it, and so did others I know. So if you dont want to hear about what I have to say, go elsewhere.

And hey IF I did 'trash it' it would be saving quite a few people hundreds, from buying such quailty.

If you want thin tin, and flanges not even up to the strength and size of the stock ones, buy CES. If you want work done, and have a say with the quailty at type of product, go to a reputable exhaust shop and get something made up for your personal car.

Simple, compare the flange on those pics with that of your stock ones. They are almost paper thin in comparison. Thats just what you can see in those pics.

Just because something in a pic looking pretty doesnt mean it worth s#%t

But as I said, Ive dealt with them, I wasnt and others werent satisfied. I have $840 of tin crap sitting on my shed floor because of my stupdity.

Its your money do what you want with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...