Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been a busy few months. Thought I'd provide a quick update.

Work done since last as of today:

  • Coilovers all round - adjusted by Tyre Worx in Hoppers Crossing 
  • New rims and tyres, staggered 18x9 front, 18x10 rear (te37 reps) by Tyre Worx in Hoppers Crossing. Really wanted a good fit without touching bodywork. Can't believe how much of a difference this made to both looks and driving.
  • Wheel alignment
  • Rust treatment in boot and boot edges, followed by spraying and sealing
  • Resealed taillights (though I stuffed it up and need to redo it as water is still coming in, tips appreciated)
  • New spark plugs
  • Replace all filters
  • 2x oil changes, with a flush between
  • Fuel flush
  • Degreased and washed engine bay out

Pretty happy where it's at (for now). I'm not a horsepower chaser here, really just want to keep it clean and restored to its factory glory. 

If anyone has tips on stuff worth doing, keeping it in line with the vision above happy to hear it. Was wondering if it was worth replacing things like coil packs and factory hoses or do you wait until they break?

More from a maintenance restoration point of view.

Anyway, cheers!

Photos to help those with a Black R33 GTS-T:

SsMJf9R.jpeg

BPLWZlJ.jpeg

vNF6vK0.jpeg

z6jLUP6.jpeg

CZhkhEY.jpeg

 

 

Edited by sycotix
  • Like 2

Nice man glad it all somewhat worked out in the end. Any update on the inspection company?

As for coil packs stay away from red and yellow ones. Black (oem) or blue splitfires, or upgrade the whole lot to 35 GTRs/other new ones.

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/16/2024 at 10:27 PM, Milkmun said:

Nice man glad it all somewhat worked out in the end. Any update on the inspection company?

As for coil packs stay away from red and yellow ones. Black (oem) or blue splitfires, or upgrade the whole lot to 35 GTRs/other new ones.

Thanks mate appreciate the tips! I lodged the matter with VCAT in the end so that will take a while to actually pop back up but not letting them get away with it. 

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
On 16/7/2024 at 4:03 PM, sycotix said:

Been a busy few months. Thought I'd provide a quick update.

Work done since last as of today:

  • Coilovers all round - adjusted by Tyre Worx in Hoppers Crossing 
  • New rims and tyres, staggered 18x9 front, 18x10 rear (te37 reps) by Tyre Worx in Hoppers Crossing. Really wanted a good fit without touching bodywork. Can't believe how much of a difference this made to both looks and driving.
  • Wheel alignment
  • Rust treatment in boot and boot edges, followed by spraying and sealing
  • Resealed taillights (though I stuffed it up and need to redo it as water is still coming in, tips appreciated)
  • New spark plugs
  • Replace all filters
  • 2x oil changes, with a flush between
  • Fuel flush
  • Degreased and washed engine bay out

Pretty happy where it's at (for now). I'm not a horsepower chaser here, really just want to keep it clean and restored to its factory glory. 

If anyone has tips on stuff worth doing, keeping it in line with the vision above happy to hear it. Was wondering if it was worth replacing things like coil packs and factory hoses or do you wait until they break?

More from a maintenance restoration point of view.

Anyway, cheers!

Photos to help those with a Black R33 GTS-T:

SsMJf9R.jpeg

BPLWZlJ.jpeg

vNF6vK0.jpeg

z6jLUP6.jpeg

CZhkhEY.jpeg

 

 

Hey @sycotixwhere did you get the spark plugs replaced? 
was that somewhere in Hoppers crossing too?

 

I’m planning to go to Backlash Automotive in Hoppers when my clovers come but if you found a decent garage on this side to do spark plugs, I’d be interested too. 
 

PS: also been reading the drama with the car at the start. Glad you got that sorted 

7 hours ago, DraftySquash said:

Hey @sycotixwhere did you get the spark plugs replaced? 
was that somewhere in Hoppers crossing too?

 

I’m planning to go to Backlash Automotive in Hoppers when my clovers come but if you found a decent garage on this side to do spark plugs, I’d be interested too. 
 

PS: also been reading the drama with the car at the start. Glad you got that sorted 

Hey mate, I'm sure Moe over at Tyre Worx and Garage Worx in Hoppers will do that but I did my spark plugs myself when I gave it a full service after buying for peace of mind. 

Thanks for the feedback!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...