Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

number #2 was "best bang for buck" ?

r33 is more roomy, more modern feel.

its not really a great question.. its like saying "what is a better - a VL commodore or a VT commodore" ? You could really ask that on any car out there. Of course the newer car is going to be better in most respects on everything except cost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48564-r32-or-r33-gts-t/#findComment-975952
Share on other sites

mate it all comes down to personal preference...

i like the look of he r32 and the better fuel economy it provides (thanks to reduced capacity and weight). i feel its the best compromise you can buy between power, reliability, and fuel economy.

but as stated, r33's are newer and thus generally in better condition than some r32's

Waz.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48564-r32-or-r33-gts-t/#findComment-976851
Share on other sites

mate it all comes down to personal preference...

i like the look of he r32 and the better fuel economy it provides (thanks to reduced capacity and weight). i feel its the best compromise you can buy between power, reliability, and fuel economy.

but as stated, r33's are newer and thus generally in better condition than some r32's

Waz.

Interestingly enough I pick the R33, and also for all the things you say above :Oops:

My car usually gets better economy than my friends (who the majority of have R32s), is quicker than most of the R32 GTSts, is more stock (a comparative performing R32 GTSt has had more spent on it including purchase price than mine + mods - but then the prices in NZ might be different) and runs less boost than most of them, and is a much newer car.

On the down side, the R33s need bigger parts to get more performance - having a bigger motor and a heavier curb weight. Where an R32 GTSt can upgrade to an R33 turbo (which I guess brings it closer to an R33s territory) an R33 needs something big, or 2 of them :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48564-r32-or-r33-gts-t/#findComment-977186
Share on other sites

I'm buying a skyline in the next few months (hopefully next few months but it may turn to longer if i cant find one!)... and I've had the same dilemma.

I've picked the r32. Simply because it looks better and is lighter.

With a rb25det in it then she will surely fly - however I really REALLY dislike the r33s bulbous look. It's just ... too round to look aggressive, the r32 has more proportion.

Sure you can kit it, but the 33 is a bit of a sperm whale lookin thing.. whereas the 32 is a bit more of a killer whale :P

As for Waz's and Lithium's points I think they're spot on too. It needs to work harder, it's older but it looks better and weighs less.

Personal preference all of them - I know which one I lean towards.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48564-r32-or-r33-gts-t/#findComment-977209
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...