Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All, Ive recently pulled my head in and gotten started on my 2year long project for my R32 RB25 swap, I went into it head high and confident it was an easy swap and plug and play wiring. I was wrong. The engine is a S1 RB25 and I'm running RB25 ECU And loom.

I got the swap done a few weeks ago and have been working on the car on my time off, however i cannot get the engine to run, at first the engine would crank however the fuel pump would not run,  i dove a little deeper and realised that i would need to connect the wires from the RB25 Body Loom and the RB20 Body loom. went through the ECU pinout and followed the wires from the Body looms one by one to find what was needed to start the car.

Now I have rewired the RB25 loom with the old R32 Body loom attached, however i am still having issues starting the car, now the pump works but still wont fire. 
The car has spark but looks very weak, however I'm suspect that its not getting any fuel. I have read a few posts related to the "Main plug" near the air intake however cannot find any information on what wiring to hook up to where. 

If anyone has done this swap, or has any knowledge at all on RB25's into 32 i would really appreciate your comment regarding this, im really keen to get this car finished. 

Thanks in advance

This is a simple swap when you reuse the RB20 loom and auxiliaries. I run a standalone, but if I remember right, using the RB25 ecu you only have 2 injectors to inverse. 

There are many DIY's on this subject online, including this forum. 

 

Edited by TurboTapin
On 06/11/2024 at 12:44 PM, TurboTapin said:

This is a simple swap when you reuse the RB20 loom and auxiliaries. I run a standalone, but if I remember right, using the RB25 ecu you only have 2 injectors to inverse. 

There are many DIY's on this subject online, including this forum. 

 

Thanks mate, yeah I've heard that alot and i am definitely regretting using the 25 Loom now, i have gone through and traced all the plugs from the 20loom and re wired them into the 25 loom, I have currently got Crank, Fuel and accessory's working, just need to finalise the loom and run the wire for the Ignition (Spark) and it should be running, will update if i have any luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...