Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All, Ive recently pulled my head in and gotten started on my 2year long project for my R32 RB25 swap, I went into it head high and confident it was an easy swap and plug and play wiring. I was wrong. The engine is a S1 RB25 and I'm running RB25 ECU And loom.

I got the swap done a few weeks ago and have been working on the car on my time off, however i cannot get the engine to run, at first the engine would crank however the fuel pump would not run,  i dove a little deeper and realised that i would need to connect the wires from the RB25 Body Loom and the RB20 Body loom. went through the ECU pinout and followed the wires from the Body looms one by one to find what was needed to start the car.

Now I have rewired the RB25 loom with the old R32 Body loom attached, however i am still having issues starting the car, now the pump works but still wont fire. 
The car has spark but looks very weak, however I'm suspect that its not getting any fuel. I have read a few posts related to the "Main plug" near the air intake however cannot find any information on what wiring to hook up to where. 

If anyone has done this swap, or has any knowledge at all on RB25's into 32 i would really appreciate your comment regarding this, im really keen to get this car finished. 

Thanks in advance

This is a simple swap when you reuse the RB20 loom and auxiliaries. I run a standalone, but if I remember right, using the RB25 ecu you only have 2 injectors to inverse. 

There are many DIY's on this subject online, including this forum. 

 

Edited by TurboTapin
On 06/11/2024 at 12:44 PM, TurboTapin said:

This is a simple swap when you reuse the RB20 loom and auxiliaries. I run a standalone, but if I remember right, using the RB25 ecu you only have 2 injectors to inverse. 

There are many DIY's on this subject online, including this forum. 

 

Thanks mate, yeah I've heard that alot and i am definitely regretting using the 25 Loom now, i have gone through and traced all the plugs from the 20loom and re wired them into the 25 loom, I have currently got Crank, Fuel and accessory's working, just need to finalise the loom and run the wire for the Ignition (Spark) and it should be running, will update if i have any luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...