Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

 

my r34 has been off for over a year with occasional start. Today I noticed a lot of noise from engine bay when turning the wheel as if power steering has no fluid . Checked and loads of fluid had flowed out of the resorvoir. Has anything been blocked/ destroyed? Maybe fluid can’t get into pump

and flowing out ?

could it need bleeding by turning steering side to side?

thoughts?

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485922-r34-power-steering/
Share on other sites

Does the steering feel heavy when you turn the wheels? Any puddles of fluid on the floor or that you can see leaking from anywhere?

You could try bleeding the system, if it’s making a whining sound when turning the wheels then that’s a sure indication there’s air in there somewhere. Start the car and remove the reservoir cap, then turn the wheels from left to right a few cycles and then check if you see any air bubbles rising to the top of the reservoir. Top up if necessary and repeat.

Otherwise, I can only suggest that your pump vanes have seized or that there is a perished seal somewhere??

Edited by Beanie
3 hours ago, drifter17a said:

Too much work, but guess I will have to

Easy place to start is jack up the front end, turn steering wheel lock to lock and see if any air bubbles purge. If nothing happens it's probably time to pull the pump and inspect. It could also be a line is clogged for whatever reason and you need to isolate the part of the system that is blocked on the high pressure side causing the pump to be unhappy.

Edited by joshuaho96

Mate. Your car is like 20 years old. Expect that the rubber bits (seals, hoses, etc.) needs to be replaced.

Best bet is to carefully go through your engine bay and try to find parts that need replacing (e.g. rubber hoses).

for your power steering issue, best bet is to pull off the pump (not that hard, you can buy basic tools from Supercheap et. al. to remove it) and then inspect/get it rebuilt.

*edit* forgot to add, no idea on R34, but my R32 HICAS computer has been playing up since I bought it (10+ years ago), so I just disconnected the small plug to "disable" HICAS but keep my power steering. So something extra for you to look into.

It may not be relevant to your situation, but when I had the issue of air getting into the system on my GTT, I found there was a tiny hole in the aluminium cooling pipe. Enough for air to be drawn in, just not enough to cause a significant leak.

Looked like the previous owner had chosen a bad place to attach the earth clamp of his welder and tried to mask this with a piece of mesh sleeving 🙄

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

looking at attached screenshot , I don’t know why there is a significant hose run for it to be looped backed into the steering

 

mine bas air in it and loads of it as when i power the car off loads of air come to surface forcing fluid out. I think my issue is leak or maybe hole somewhere like yours. I am going to drain the fluid and smoke test it

 

when i turn steering side to side it soften up little before getting hard and believe issue is air leak somewhere as pump is fine

IMG_2094.jpeg

2 hours ago, drifter17a said:

looking at attached screenshot , I don’t know why there is a significant hose run for it to be looped backed into the steering

 

mine bas air in it and loads of it as when i power the car off loads of air come to surface forcing fluid out. I think my issue is leak or maybe hole somewhere like yours. I am going to drain the fluid and smoke test it

 

when i turn steering side to side it soften up little before getting hard and believe issue is air leak somewhere as pump is fine

IMG_2094.jpeg

The reservoir is pretty far from the pump, as others have said some of the pipe is also a rather janky power steering cooler. Find the leak. It might be the rack, might be a hose/pipe, etc.

Does power steering have a cooler?

 

pump is right next to the pump and as I understand r34 hicas is electric so unsure why all that loop going to driver side from the pump where the pump is on passenger side( uk based) 

Below seems to replace the entire hosing with this kit

https://www.jdmgarageuk.com/jdmgarageuk-power-steering-line-kit-for-rwd-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-silvia-s13-s14-s15.html?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAqLt7fNuZgXNepjqk8I-qovXgmJCu&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_9u5BhCUARIsABbMSPtHrfTutOf0ROkDV6lb7BQO-dqh2AMpqlyvTw7ncRMMkHjDIICIoA8aAiaZEALw_wcB

53 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

Does power steering have a cooler?

Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator.

54 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

r34 hicas is electric so unsure why all that loop going to driver side from the pump where the pump is on passenger side( uk based)

Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines.

Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.

  • Thanks 1

Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.

 

Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work.

So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off

 

i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole

 

smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump

 

In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?

 

finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf

49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram.

Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank.

49717M is feed from tank to pump.

HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line.

Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
On 11/15/2024 at 2:17 PM, drifter17a said:

Does power steering have a cooler?

 

pump is right next to the pump and as I understand r34 hicas is electric so unsure why all that loop going to driver side from the pump where the pump is on passenger side( uk based) 

Below seems to replace the entire hosing with this kit

https://www.jdmgarageuk.com/jdmgarageuk-power-steering-line-kit-for-rwd-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-silvia-s13-s14-s15.html?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAqLt7fNuZgXNepjqk8I-qovXgmJCu&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_9u5BhCUARIsABbMSPtHrfTutOf0ROkDV6lb7BQO-dqh2AMpqlyvTw7ncRMMkHjDIICIoA8aAiaZEALw_wcB

Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock.

image.thumb.png.3a6083d367e061ba8f45775db72ec3a7.png

The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility.

Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened.

Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.

  • Like 1

I have done smoke test and can’t see any leak on high or low side.

 

checked pump and fluid can flow through. Removed the high pressure from steering and did smoke test and same on low side, no leak.

 

puzzled. Thinking why if it was all ok it suddenly went as car was off road for a year. Don’t want to disassemble pump yet as i can see fluid / air( compressor) can flow through with no issues

9 hours ago, drifter17a said:

I have done smoke test and can’t see any leak on high or low side.

 

checked pump and fluid can flow through. Removed the high pressure from steering and did smoke test and same on low side, no leak.

 

puzzled. Thinking why if it was all ok it suddenly went as car was off road for a year. Don’t want to disassemble pump yet as i can see fluid / air( compressor) can flow through with no issues

Do you have any hose clamps that are not OEM? You must use constant tension clamps in the system or when it gets cold it can be a "vacuum leak" on the intake side of the pump. The other thing to think about is whether there is excessive restriction on the inlet side of the pump. If it's pulling too much vacuum the cavitation on the pump will generate air bubbles as well and also burn the fluid.

All clamps are oem 

 

one question is , what is the bit at the top on high pressure pipe where it connectes to intake manifold and other side goes toward the engine( see item in red circle in diabram attached)

 

? Seen some people stating that should be removed on boosted application and skyline is boosted from manufacture so little puzzled. Mine is around 23pwi (700 hpish)

 

also some state it could be the bonjo bolt crash washer so bought two washers

IMG_2162.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...