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OK , for those who have done it how hard or easy is it to fit the RB series six into the DR30 Skyline . I'm guessing some dramas may exist with the gearbox fit . R30's with the L Series six used the short gearbox while L20b's and the FJ20 used the long box , and sat further forward . So with an RB20/25/30 how do you make the longer six and the long box fit without butchering the floor pan and console ?

Some of you may think "shame on you for loosing faith in the FJ20ET" but there are some problems with it that are insurmountable . Firstly , it is only 1990cc's even if it does rev like a turbine . Secondly cubic inches are generally the cheapest horses . Thirdly parts are starting to dry up for them .

I reckon that a mild RB30ET or DET would be more than a match for a highly strung FJ20ET - for a road car .

So back to the conversion - how hard is it ? What engine and gearbox mounts work the best ?

Thanks in advance and maybe two late FJ's and their boxes up for sale .

cheers A .

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mines a hr30 and i had to cut about 3/4 of an inch from the back of the hole for the shifter to come through.. i'm using an rb20det and r32 gearbox, the brake booster was swapp[ed for the r32 one as well as the old one was in the way to fit the engine, the major problem was the wiring $$$.

I reckon that a mild RB30ET or DET would be more than a match for a highly strung FJ20ET - for a road car

Depends what you do in your road car! :)

IF you do go the RB route,what sort of $ would you be wanting for your FJ's and boxes?

And (possibly) might you be interested in a swap for an RB20DET?

what xmembers did you use...for engine and gbox? or were they custom made...

used the r32 engine mounts with about a 10mm steel spacer placed between the mount and the body, from what i can see the standard gearbox mount is still in place..

RSX84 if you used the std gearbox mount it must have mounted further back in the tunnel ie long engine further back (compared to FJ20) and long box , so I gather the body mount studs were moved further back . Does anyone here have detailed pics of this and RB engine and mounts . Also was the engine back far enough to use the belt driven fan ? I HATE ELECTRIC FANS ! So do dyno operators .

Did the R32 Brake Booster bolt straight in and does the R30 master cylinder fit it .

From a cost point of view can good power be had from the single cam RB30ET . Long term a twin cam head would be good especially if the block mods were done from the start .

LOTS of pics please , thanks A .

with mine the gearbox mounts hav'nt been moved and i still retain the belt driven fan?? the back of the engine sits about an inch from the fire wall i was also able to install the r32 radiator as well, i'm using the r32 booster and master cylinder as the old one was in the way to let the engine sit where it is, i'll post up some pics tomorro to show you these bits, heres one to show the fan.

the rb30et is a good engine and alot of r31 boys have goon quite far with it but the rb30det is by far a better package :headspin: there is a bit of work involved in getting it right. one was for sale a few months ago for $8000 engine/ecu produced 360kw with something like 450Nm.

Thanks heaps RSX84 . I've been going through the RB30DET R33 conversion in the forced induction section and its something like 56 pages long ! The engine seems easy enough . Take 1 RB30E , add 1 RB25DE head (goes bolt) . Add ancileries and enjoy .

One thing I REALLY need to know is will the bonnet close over it . The RB30 block is 30mm taller than the RB20/25/26 . How much clearence do you get over the RB20 . If I do this I'll use my R32 GTR radiator that I had in the Bluebird .

Lots of pix please , particularly around engine and gearbox mounts .

Can't thank you enough A .

theres probibly not one of us on here that hasent been for a look through that thread at some point! my engine is raised about 10mm to line up the engine and driveshaft but you can see an indent from the standard blowoff valve in the fire proofing on the bonnett.

Hmm , so 30mm taller with the RB30DET could be a drama . I am prepared to use a 1 piece tailshaft if it goes ahead . How high above the front cross member does the sump pan sit . Were there any issues with the drag link . I don't suppose the R32 cross member fits . Nah , it would be too easy if the R32 cross member , rack and control arms went in and the engine mounts went bolt !

cheers A .

While the SR20DET is along more modern lines than the FJ20 it is not really any lighter . Trust me , you pick up a bare block and tell me its light . There are problems with is rockerised valve train , the porting and chambers are not as good as FJ/RB AND they're only 2000cc or 121 cu in . When a 2 litre motor is doing 8000rpm the 3 litre is doing 5300rpm to move the same amount of air (piston motors are basically air pumps) . While RB30 pistons and rods may be a little less durable as FJ20 but there are 6 of them to share the power loads . Divide 450hp and 400 ft lbs by 4 and get 112.5 and 100 . Divide by 6 and you get 66.7 and 75 which for the RB30 std NA bits is not unreasonable . When you can buy a short 2nd hand RB30 for 1-$200 and a RB25DE for under $1000 this is cheap performance . There are heaps of aftermarket bits for RB's which can be had reasonably cheaply whereas everything for the FJ has to be fabricated one off and costs a bomb .

Good performance is not cheap but when you can get more fo less ......

My next car will very likely be an R32 so the RB30DET and R200 LSD are one out one in . I like the idea of future proofing my cars , its far easier than doing everything from scratch - and the cost benefits are enormous .

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