Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy all,

 

I had my rb25det S2 rebuilt and finally started it today but have run into a few issues 

Engine sounds like a a diesel easiest way to summarise like small ticking, gets louder when revs are slightly adjusted 

The engine builder repainted the engine cover leaving no where for me to go off with lining up the CAS so have it as central as possible so not sure it that could be affecting it?,

changed the gearbox fluid too but won’t seem to go into gear when running, and only 1 to 4 when off having a hard time finding 5th and reverse

anyone got any ideas or a base for me to start off?

much appreciated 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486065-rebuilt-rb25det-issues/
Share on other sites

Use a 2' length of hose (that's 2 foot, not 2 inches) as a stethoscope to localise the source of the ticking. From cam covers? From exhaust or turbo manifold gasket? From injectors? From lower down in the engine? Etc.

Use a timing light to set the timing.

Put Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the box. It's not the very best thing for the box, but it will take a box that refuses to engage a gear with other oil, and make it engage a gear. I had to put it in when I installed the R33 box I have in my car. It would not select ANY gear when running. Smurf jizz made it work. That was >10 years ago and I still use it. I'm stuck with it now.

Failing that - rebuild the box.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Use a 2' length of hose (that's 2 foot, not 2 inches) as a stethoscope to localise the source of the ticking. From cam covers? From exhaust or turbo manifold gasket? From injectors? From lower down in the engine? Etc.

Use a timing light to set the timing.

Put Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the box. It's not the very best thing for the box, but it will take a box that refuses to engage a gear with other oil, and make it engage a gear. I had to put it in when I installed the R33 box I have in my car. It would not select ANY gear when running. Smurf jizz made it work. That was >10 years ago and I still use it. I'm stuck with it now.

Failing that - rebuild the box.

I don’t really have any ideas how to set the timing on the CAS 😂,

sounds like the top, sounds like it maybe misfiring as well as ticking, 

got the box sorted 😌, must of been a air bubble on the clutch side

Hmm. I should have thought of the clutch bleeding issue. It should be #1 thought for "can't select gears".

As to "sounds like the top".....have you actually gone out with the stethoscope and tried to pin it down any more than that?

And, buy or borrow a timing light, and set the timing properly.

  • Like 1
10 hours ago, KyoyaR33 said:

....small ticking, gets louder when revs are slightly adjusted 

I'd suggest having the engine builder listen to it, especially if they assembled it, and minimise how much you run it in the meantime. It may have a serious issue like a big end bearing from the description and I assume the rebuild was not cheap

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...