Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

maybe try something like this:

image.thumb.png.bba976102d1f5f4f9ce2de05fd7a9e79.png

Which cells are highlighted when you're trying to crank the car? AND is this issue only when the car is warm OR cold?

 

If it's only when it's warm, then you need to throw more crank prime fuel into it, something like this:

image.thumb.png.3ca692133de54735bbe8dda4ae168b63.png

2 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

Ok so my table is in ms? Ill try to unplug them one at a time. If i unplug 1 injector wont it be misfiring? 

The gas pedal should be called the "air-pedal" 🤣

It's not called a gas pedal. That's just what Murica refers to it as.

It's called a throttle pedal, or accelerator pedal.

Because it makes the engine accelerate, and the thing it is controlling is the... Throttle...

 

The only pedal in the vehicles that "gives it more gas" is in a diesel. And it doesn't give it has. It gives it diesel.

1 hour ago, kevboost7 said:

I think it happens both hot and cold. But i've only been testing during cold starts so the cell thats highlighted is 10 degrees celcius. 

 

Highlight that row, and a bit of trial and error.

Try reducing it by 25% and see if it starts, if not, go the other way.

On the newer Kebabtechs that table is in VE which makes it so much easier to calibrate.

  • 2 weeks later...

Something strange is happening. I didn't touch the car since we last spoke on the forums. Yesterday was the first day of good weather, so i took it out for about 2 hours. It started up on first crank every time about 5 times total. I literally didn't do anything to do the car.

 

Well, if it was acting like a real bitch when the weather was cold, real cold, and if it is acting less bitchy now that it is not so cold, then it would appear to be linked to how much enrichment the ECU is giving as a function of temperature.

I mean, it might not. It might be something else. But it certainly seems like a place to look.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...