R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

[Duncan]

No need to replace the cover if it is still intact (not worn through). It would be worth checking the balancer for matching marks on the rear, but I'd assume the balancer was loose at some stage.

The cam timing marks look fine, once you put the new belt on you can only be right or a full tooth out

[drifter17a]

Cover is damaged per picture I uploaded so want to change it. Do you reckon balancer could be f**ked and need changing?

[GTSBoy]

2 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

so want to change it

You do you. But I always resist changing things that don't matter, in favour of spending and doing on the things that do matter.

[drifter17a]

Want to change and monitor if it robs again

 

could be my harmonic balancer is gone

 

do you reckon it can be bent crank , don’t believe so at 600+ hp that would shop very quickly so can think either harmonic on way out or at somepoint in car life it wasn’t tightened so balancer wobbled

[GTSBoy]

33 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

Want to change and monitor if it robs again

Put a piece of tape on it.

 

33 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

could be my harmonic balancer is gone

If it's that gone, you would be seeing it on the balancer. It would look rooted.

34 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

do you reckon it can be bent crank

Not in this universe.

[MBS206]

It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.

[drifter17a]

I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer

 

few questions,

 

1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly? 
 

2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top

 

3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?

 

it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear

 

4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?

 

5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number?

It looks like this

https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD

 

https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2
https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz
https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U

 

[Duncan]

1. No need, it only gets used once then is locked in place by the nut

2. EN-62 point 6 shows the conical washer the other way around (BTW I know we discussed above, I hope you are changing the idler as well, while it is no guarantee the bearing is a actually bad, it looks terrible)

3. I'm not really clear on the question, are you worried because it was easy, not hard, to remove the custom timing trigger? As long as it doesn't spin on the crank (when the bolt is tight) all good

4. Yeah just make sure the brand is easy to read as it rolls past

5. The part number is on the listing under the description, 13023-42L00. Given there is a custom part on there for timing (presumably outside the cover), they may have decided to leave that off; I think I would put the washer in there as it also helps seal the timing case from crap getting in.

[drifter17a]

great really appreciate it

 

re 3 I am worried as gear came off easy but no spinning etc. i reckon tuner has welded that 12 tab gear to the crank gear so crank position can be read by ecu

 

re en-62 point 6 what do you mean? I am changing both tensioner and idler but looking to find torque setting as well

[drifter17a]

I think I follow re en-62 , I looked at rb26 and conical washer is after pressure washer.

so order is nut then conical washer then pressure washer but I don’t know which side should recessed bit should face( conical washer )

 

 

https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4540.38gabk

Edited April 28 by drifter17a

[Duncan]

Yeah sorry I meant page EN-62 from the R32 GTR workshop manual, Point 6, which says this about the 2 washers on the tensioner

If the crank trigger is welded to the crank timing belt gear, then yes the woodruff key will stop that spinning unless either the key or the crank are badly damaged (and in which case the timing would likely be off/moving anyway).

Generally the timing gear slides off the crank OK, but they can be a nightmare on some cranks (generally due to rust etc). If it slides off easily, just consider yourself lucky. If it is really stuck, I've seen people resort to grinding/chiseling them off etc but it is a bad time by then because you are likely to damage the crank as well

[drifter17a]

Wow man thank you, that simple washer was making me very nervous and chat gpt was confusing me

 

didn’t know it shows it further down silly me, spent hours looking at every youtube video to see which way washer is installed

[GTSBoy]

50 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

and chat gpt was confusing me

Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.

[drifter17a]

The

9 hours ago, Duncan said:

Yeah sorry I meant page EN-62 from the R32 GTR workshop manual, Point 6, which says this about the 2 washers on the tensioner

If the crank trigger is welded to the crank timing belt gear, then yes the woodruff key will stop that spinning unless either the key or the crank are badly damaged (and in which case the timing would likely be off/moving anyway).

Generally the timing gear slides off the crank OK, but they can be a nightmare on some cranks (generally due to rust etc). If it slides off easily, just consider yourself lucky. If it is really stuck, I've seen people resort to grinding/chiseling them off etc but it is a bad time by then because you are likely to damage the crank as well

I've done a lot of research and feel like I'm becoming a nut and washer expert. The washer in question doesn’t look very conical—it’s almost flat, but one side has a chamfer.

The guide's picture shows the convex side (chamfered side) facing the nut, but the text says the chamfer should face the pulley, which is confusing. If I follow the picture, the chamfer faces the nut, but the instructions say the opposite.

When I place the washer on a flat surface, one side looks flatter—maybe that's the concave side—so I would expect the chamfer to be on that side. But it isn’t, which adds to the confusion.

The term chamfer is also throwing me off. I always thought the concave side should face the pulley, and the convex side (with the chamfer) should face the nut or bolt head. But Nissan’s instructions say the chamfer should face the pulley, which seems backward.

I know I’m probably overthinking it, but I want to be sure I’m doing it right.

Also, I’ve seen some people replace the nut and stud with a bolt, but I assume that’s not a good idea, since it might not keep proper tension on the tensioner.

Lastly, just to be 100% sure: the pressure washer should face the pulley, then the conical washer? That feels strange, since usually the pressure washer goes first, facing the bolt or nut.

Edited April 29 by drifter17a

[drifter17a]

8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.

I agree re not trusting it as it makes mistakes however can do hours of research for you at times by simply asking a question

[drifter17a]

On 29/04/2025 at 8:01 AM, drifter17a said:

The

I've done a lot of research and feel like I'm becoming a nut and washer expert. The washer in question doesn’t look very conical—it’s almost flat, but one side has a chamfer.

The guide's picture shows the convex side (chamfered side) facing the nut, but the text says the chamfer should face the pulley, which is confusing. If I follow the picture, the chamfer faces the nut, but the instructions say the opposite.

When I place the washer on a flat surface, one side looks flatter—maybe that's the concave side—so I would expect the chamfer to be on that side. But it isn’t, which adds to the confusion.

The term chamfer is also throwing me off. I always thought the concave side should face the pulley, and the convex side (with the chamfer) should face the nut or bolt head. But Nissan’s instructions say the chamfer should face the pulley, which seems backward.

I know I’m probably overthinking it, but I want to be sure I’m doing it right.

Also, I’ve seen some people replace the nut and stud with a bolt, but I assume that’s not a good idea, since it might not keep proper tension on the tensioner.

Lastly, just to be 100% sure: the pressure washer should face the pulley, then the conical washer? That feels strange, since usually the pressure washer goes first, facing the bolt or nut.

am i being silly here and over cautious?