Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi. This is just my curiosity because iam sure the tuner figure something out...but either way i want to ask.

The "problem" is that the Nistune ECU (Stagea FW and RB25DET NEO from Stagea) sees many times the speed than the speedo does(he says the speedo show 120 km/h - correct speed and the ECU shows like 510km/h )

I told him that this car/tranny getting speed from rear diff.
If iam not mistaken the RB25DET NEO "need" to see tranny speed sensor? (my tranny has the plug for it).

So couple of "question"
If he connects/wire the speed sensor to the tranny...are the signals gonna intervene and if...what if he disconnects the rear diff one and the speedo stops working? Or the "new" sensor from the tranny "take over" and will not going need the one from diff?

As i said i know he figure/get that done...iam just curious to know what are the solutions 🙂 

25 minutes ago, Kapr said:

RB25DET NEO "need" to see tranny speed sensor?

Correct.

25 minutes ago, Kapr said:

If he connects/wire the speed sensor to the tranny...are the signals gonna intervene and if...what if he disconnects the rear diff one and the speedo stops working? Or the "new" sensor from the tranny "take over" and will not going need the one from diff?

Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But.....

The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU.

So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars.

I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU.

** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on.

I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!)

Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work.

You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.

  • Thanks 1

EDIT: 
So after a little bit of thinking i said FU*K it ...lets not waste time and even more money on non sense and lets go Link ECU.

It would cost alot (with tuning) but is the best for the future of car and the engine.

So that would be the end of "errors" 🙂 

I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting.

I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 

The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine :) 

I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can)

And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe.

And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.

There was posted some where on here recently, about how to change resistors/open some connections/close other connections, and it can alter the speed output, if the gearbox is sending the signal to dash, and then dash to ecu.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...