Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have for sale the parts to convert your car from auto to manual.

Comes with:

5spd Gearbox

Pedal Box

Master Cylinder

Slave Cylinder

Tail Shaft

Not included is the clutch and flywheel. All parts are in good condition and came

out of a '95 GTS-T. Asking $1450 complete and would prefer local pickup in Melbourne. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48803-r33-auto-to-manual-conversion/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Blitz Boy, is that $1300AUD for the gearbox? If so, I'll take it from ya. I'll also include the extra money for freight to the US. Please post back here or PM me. I need this ASAP as my current GTS-T tranny on my 240sx is shot. Thanks so much.

Hey Blitz Boy, is that $1300AUD for the gearbox? If so, I'll take it from ya. I'll also include the extra money for freight to the US. Please post back here or PM me. I need this ASAP as my current GTS-T tranny on my 240sx is shot. Thanks so much.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The gearbox has 95,000 kms. It's condition is great, it felt really good to change all gears. The car it came out of was not modified(just exhaust).

I'm in the Northern Suburbs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...