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thanks heaps for that jamesw

and why?

it's stupid i know... i saw the new sv6 commodore an there 190kw! i dont mind being kicked by a turbo car or a V8 but not by a N/A V6 commodore >.< bad nuff being kicked by any commodore.... i justed wanted to know what mods would i have to do to keep up with one, didn't want huge pawer, but after reading that thread i guess there's no point

i'll just work on trying to keep up with excel's :burnout:

thanks heaps for that jamesw

and why?

it's stupid i know... i saw the new sv6 commodore an there 190kw! i dont mind being kicked by a turbo car or a V8 but not by a N/A V6 commodore QUOTE]

LOL ;)

200kw @ engine should be achievable while maintaining some kind of streetability from an RB25DE.... maybe even easier with an RB30 bottom end on it :)

Previous to my R33 I had an NA 2.2VTEC Honda Prelude which I managed to get over 140kw @ wheels (in the area of mild R33 GTS25ts ;) ) and that wasn't exactly pushing it hard.

The only issue with modding NA cars is they are a LOT less tolerant to mindless modifications, decide right from the start where you want to take it and plan out the mods to suit. For 200kW @ engine you'd probably want around a SMOOTH high flowing 2.5" exhaust , a good set of custom extractors, a well designed cold air induction system, higher compression (maybe 10.5-11.0 : 1 compression), a set of cams (with supporting retainer, valves and valve spring upgrades) which allow for 4500-7500rpm optimum operation, and an after market ECU with support for a MAP sensor to provide minimal restriction to the induction system - with some dyno tuning.

If I were doing this, I would PROBABLY look at getting a inlet manifold and plenum to make sure that the air maintains a more ideal velocity and path - similar to plenum setup for an R33 GTS25t with a front mount, and mount the filter in the front. I suspect with this setup, I suspect you'd get a very solid 190-200kw @ flywheel, and a nice drivable car which would embarrass a mildly modified FI equivalent of your car down the 1/4 or on a track due to response and more consistant power delivery and a significantly lighter wallet.

Lithium, your post truely intriged me. How much do you think it would cost to set that up on an N/A R34? Also, by installing all of the aforementioned, would it then be harder to Turbo (ie. would you have to replace all the components again to make it more suitable for the RB25DE's turbo counterpart?).

Cheers

Viscount...even I'd wince at putting a Turbo on at that compression :D

Damn, I wrote a big response to Viscount but it seems my post has disappeared, or never actually saved properly!?

Anyway, yeah - the compression, the exhaust, the intake and the exhaust manifold will be either incompatible or inappropriate for turbocharging. I'd recommend one or the other, a turbocharged RB25 that is in its peak between 4500-7500 is going to be a lot more extreme than the scope of this thread :D

thanks heaps for that info lithium!

i'v got a 2.25" cat back exhaust an cold air induction system done already

how much would i be looking at for:

custom extractors?

cams?

rb30 bottom end?

higher compression?

inlet manifold and plenum?

an ECU?

just a ruff prices on each would be cool, just so i know what i'm looking at

To be honest, aside from the fact that I am in NZ and you are in Oz (currency, and that certain parts are more available, and others less on this side of the Tasman), I couldn't really say off the top of my head. I haven't looked at NA mods for a Skyline, being that mine is a 25T - and my previous mods were all for a 4cyl.

Realistically the homework on pricing should really be up to you - it would be easier for you to find out the prices... you can pick the parts you like most etc, as that is a whole new discussion that could be had.

Off the top of my head, I'd budget $10k and then go from there, you SHOULD be left with change.

  • 2 weeks later...

Heres the idea I was kicking around...

RB25DE non VVT motor

-RB26DETT throttle bodies and plenum modded to fit

- Aftermarket management (ie get rid of AFM and go map sensor)

-Aftermarket camshafts + pulleys

-heads cleaned up and mildly ported if necessary, combustion chambers cleaned up

-Shaved head

-good exhaust system - ie nice headers/extractors and 2.5" system

-Balanced crank and rods OR RB26 crank and maybe rods.

-lightened flywheel

I reckon that would crack 250hp or so at the fly.

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