Jump to content
SAU Community

Where to get car audio installed

GTR32

By GTR32,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

Veilside R33 Veteran

Veilside R33

Posted
Posted

it all depends on what your having done? if your just installing speakers (i should slap you for not doing it yourself) but anywhere can do that. i dont really trust JB at all for installs, unles its just having a deck put in or something simple. but do you want show car work? or basic stuff?

BDL Fyshwick have done some really imspressive work, including the Jracing S15 and many other showcar installs.

also try Kustom car Creations, he's a member of syndicate and has apparently done some really nice work. O4O1 57O 98O, web site will be up soon apparently.

but if your just after basic stuff then pretty much anywhere can do it.

LTSJayce Veteran

LTSJayce

Posted
Posted

Straight up-go to Audiotech at Tuggeranong:I just got my R32 back from Tony and his crew-ABSO-FRICKIN'-LUTELY top notch job!!Can't recommend them highly enough!!Tell them I sent ya!!And if you're doubtful,check my car out on the photoshoot weekend!!

GTR32 Rising Star

GTR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Guys,

I ended up going to BDL. Dealt with Adam mainly, very happy. Took his time to explain, didn't try to empty my wallet, and happily answered my dumbass questions. Other staff were good also.

Modest system, Focal splits in the front and 6x9 Pioneers in the back, sounds good to me though and the car was ready quicker than they suggested.

Regards

Terminal Grand Master

Terminal

Posted
Posted

If you want to install 6x9's in the parcel shelf on an R33, make sure you have a day spare. it took me the best part of a day to get them in there, they need some hefty spacers. i've had 2 headunits stolen, so i know my way around that area of the skyline. There's a headunit install guide on this site somewhere, i think in the maintenance section. give it a shot, it worked for me, 3 times now. door speakers are easy to get at too, just have to unhook the interior door panels and they're right there. some people have put 6x9's in the side of the passenger walls, just above the armrest in the backseat, but that requires some cutting, and i wasn't confident i could do that nicely.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...