Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When looking around at R32's I almost bought an Auto R32.

It wasn't too bad off the line, it did feel a little dougy but that is the nature of the RB20DET's. Once up on boost it did pull hard and hit second gear nice and solid.

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Have you driven an auto Skyline Dave?

They are no where near as bad as you are making out...

Plenty of them are pulling good times too...

yar, i dont doubt that theres not much performance difference

i just like slaming my line through the gears, up and down

everyone is quoting these times given by nissan and other performance magazines. without giving them a thought...

well think about this:

when nissan (or a review magazine) does its testing, they have professional drivers that know exactly what rpm to change gears at, and exactly how to take the car off at its optimum level. how many times have manual drivers got that little bit too much wheelspin? or a lot too much wheelspin? or bogged it down with no wheelspin? or chenged gears too late? or too early?

take a stock R33GTSt and i mean STOCK and you won't get anywhere near the 6.1 seconds 0-100 quoted by nissan.

an auto is much easier to replicate the times as many variables do not exist. its easier to get a good takeoff with a bit of stall, and the gear change points are already worked out. at the end of the day a manual might pull 10kW more on the dyno, but a sh1t driver can ruin that when you are at the quarter...

Waz.

or buy a 4wd hatch... :D

don't forget autos run a different diff ratio and gearing ratio better for acceleration - i think that makes up for a lot of the shortcomings of an auto, and why it is that way.

Yeh basically what everyone has said is the same;

Autos only weakness on straight line speed is the take off.

Some of those autospeed writeups are full of easy to make errors.

But yeh, as waz said, another advantage is consistancy.

Automatic these days arent what they used to be :D

I doubt an Auto R32 with 16psi of boost, exhaust and fmic will run a 5.2-5.6 sec 0-100. :rofl:

 

Saying that I've thought about the idea of an Auto behind the RB30DET.

 

The increase in fuel consumption is what gets me worried.

 

What sort of fuel consumption are you blokes getting in your Auto's?

 

When I had a VL I picked up around 80km's per tank by converting to manual.

in regards to your auto VL and your fuel consumption, i agree big time! my VL had zorst, cooler, pod, boost, and a microtech ecu. auto had a stall converter and shift kit - and the thing would struggle to get 220 k's out of a tank - driving like a grandma! wtf? oh yeah, and it was tuned good aswell.

i know it's a big difference, but my R34 gets close to 400 k's out of a tank nailing the arse off it. pod and zorst are it's only mods.

Autos only weakness on straight line speed is the take off.  

It depends on the set up, I have seen 2 X auto 2wd Skylines run 9's and 1 X auto 2wd Skyline run an 8, but I have never seen a manual 2wd Skyline get under a 10. If I was building a 2wd Skyline drag car I would build an auto every single time. But that doesn't interest me, so it's manuals for circuit racing everytime. For towing or driving in traffic the Stagea auto is hard to beat.

As usual, it's horses for courses :)

rs73 it may have been aftermarket auto, or it may have been rebuilt, but show me a manual running those sort of speeds that still uses a factory box (I bet they are also aftermarket or modified gear sets). I think its a given that at those extremes you will have to do serious work to the whole driveline.

It may have been aftermarket, or it may have been rebuilt, but show me a manual running those sort of speeds that still uses a factory box. I think its a given that at those extremes you will have to do serious work to the whole driveline.

Change the auto box, sure. But 2 of 3 those cars run totally standard drivetrains from the tailshaft back. That's very, very rare in a manual, the shock from the mega clutch that you have to run, coupled with the sticky track and tyres, rips the shoot out of driveshafts, uni's etc. Never seen a diff break though, damn tough those things, not called the "Japanese 9 inch" for nothing. :) .

Sydneykid, I agree with you (and have edited my response to make it more clear) the autos are often under-rated and are the ideal thing for drags and street work. (admittedly not for track work yet, but if they release a 6 speed tiptronic auto, it may be the ideal thing for track work aswell)

PS are you still heading to Adelaide some time soon? the offer to try the auto with the PFC still stands. (And I'd love to get a look at your Stagea, its probably our next car to replace the wifes ford wagon)

Sydneykid, I agree with you (and have edited my response to make it more clear) the autos are often under-rated and are the ideal thing for drags and street work. (admittedly not for track work yet, but if they release a 6 speed tiptronic auto, it may be the ideal thing for track work aswell)

PS are you still heading to Adelaide some time soon? the offer to try the auto with the PFC still stands. (And I'd love to get a look at your Stagea, its probably our next car to replace the wifes ford wagon)

Adelaide, the guys were there a couple of weeks ago, but I didn't go, too much work. I think we are there about the same time next year, the calendar isn't finalised yet though. Maybe we go to Mallala twice next year as the Improved Production Nationals are on there.

Don't underestimate the autos on the track, the Tilley brothers used to run a couple of Chrysler products in Appendix J with the push button 3 speed auto. I can't say as I ever saw them loose a drag to the first corner. High rpm stall converters and tightly locked autos with push button sellection, make sure the power band of the engine suites the gearing. (Just in case Steve-SST is reading this), their engines made plenty of power, they have a Dyno Dynamics dyno in house. It doesn't run Shoot Out mode, but it never stopped their cars from winning races.

:)

My R33 is auto had this done

3.5"turbo back exhaust with custom super flow dump and high flow cat

750hp fuel pump 550cc injectors

pod filter induction with cold air mod with r34 stock cooler

turbo smart dual stage bc running 7 and 12 psi ,SAFC

springs and shocks

off the line no wheelspin just flies from the get go, chirps 2nd most of the time

have found that that is the down fall with mates manual 33's while they are still spinning or chirpin through 3rd i am waiting with the drinks.

havnt done quater since put mods on but mates run mid and high 13's and i beat em so i should be doin low 13's or maybe better haha

GO THE AUTO's

Not that manuals are bad though

GO MANUAL's also

I have put new fluid in my auto box and can report sharper shifting although it could be better. I don't think I got all the fluid out of the torque converter so I have ended up with a mix of old and new fluid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...