Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At the moment wanting to buy a 32 for my first car, but theres this thought thats always pushing to the back of my head.... THE PETROL... and when your pumpin turbo through 6 cylinders; tends to drink a bit. But then i remebered some article that was on a current affairs or today tonight or somethin, about some way that you can make your own petrol out of the left over oil that fish and chip deep fryers??? apprently its really healthy.... but i don't know how true that is.. but this thing on TV was aggggggggggesssssss ago. does anybody know anything about this process???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50205-homemade-petrol/
Share on other sites

If your impending fuel bill is what's worrying you maybe you aren't prepared for the true cost of owning a Skyline? They are essentially a black hole for money, fuel bills, mods, detailing, servicing - then you'll want to upgrade to a GTR and AARRRGGGHHH!!!!

hehehe but its the best hobby you can have.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50205-homemade-petrol/#findComment-998529
Share on other sites

If your impending fuel bill is what's worrying you maybe you aren't prepared for the true cost of owning a Skyline? .....

hehehe but its the best hobby you can have.

nah its not that bad, i know the skylines gonna cost me more than your av car but hey ill find the money, actually the situation isn't that bad , just thought it was worth looking at cos free fuel would be pretty damn cool... guess it was too good to be true then..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50205-homemade-petrol/#findComment-999550
Share on other sites

funny that you say that, cause Optimax is supposed to be a shit fuel.  

maybe you should stick to the home made stuff :rofl:

Hmm looks like we had a petrochemical expert here with his own lab and everything.

I wouldnt mind knowing the molecular makeup of optimax when you have some spare time

note: this post is very sarcastic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50205-homemade-petrol/#findComment-999571
Share on other sites

whic is?....

One thing, RB engines dont run on diesel.

It is made by chemically reacting vegetable oils, animal fats with alcohol and recycled cooking grease/oil. Some bio-diesel is made from domestically produced soybean oil.

It can be made from both new and used vegie oil and animal fats. The fat is chemically reacted with an alcahol ( usually methanol ) to make whats called fatty acid methyl esters. Glycerol is made as a coproduct.

The oils and fats are filtered and preprocessed first to remove water and and contaminants. They are then mixed with the methanol and a catalyst ( sodium or potassium hydroxide ).

The molecules are are broken apart and then reformed into esters and glycerol which are seperated from each other and purified

I dont think you can run an engine straight of bio-diesel. It comes in blends.

B2 is (98% diesel and 2% bio-diesel)

B5 is (95% diesel and 5% bio-diesel)

there are also blends which have 20% bio-diesel (B20)

At the service station ( it still has a fair while before it fully spreads throughout australia ) it would cost around 1.5 times more than straight diesel.

It also has an energy content which is 10% lower than straight diesel. The more you add the less power, torque your engine produces.

Bio-diesel also reduces wear and a mild solvent will clean your fuel system.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50205-homemade-petrol/#findComment-999573
Share on other sites

I have an issue of "modern MOTOR (may 1974)" – the height of the fuel crisis - which has a formula for making your own petrol. It consists of a blend of :

Toluene (65%)

Benzol (25%)

Naptha (10%) - Heavy naptha, water-white)

Mix the ingredients (by volume) stir and poor in the tank through a strainer (you can get sediment from the naptha occasionally)

This mix is compatible with existing fuel and can be run on its own or in a blend.

This mix was tested on various cars of the day and "they all performed better and gave better economy .. than on either standard or premium octane petrol" - **I would be interested to know the octane rating of this mix, but I guess it must be in the mid nineties**

The article went on to say "we tested this petrol substitute in many vehicles without experiencing any trouble or damage to engine or any other vehicle components." but then went on to say "we accept no responsibility for any damage that might occur" (which makes sense to cover their own backs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50205-homemade-petrol/#findComment-999723
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
    • Sounds good, we will aim to be there! @The Bogan I'll give you a shout if you are heading up to campbelltown for the meet too.
×
×
  • Create New...