Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This really should become part of the FAQ. The stuff you need to send to DOTARS has been covered in this and other threads, plus PHATR32 is given you some info.

But to summarise, you need to send:

- completed import application

- certified copy of drivers licence

- copy of purchase invoice

- proof of car age (usually Jap dereg doc)

These last two should have been provided to you via your broker or whoever your buying the car from.

  • Replies 250
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If the first is a Monday, put it in the post on the Friday.

As others have said, read very carefully what you need to send in and make sure you fill out every part of the form. Screw it up and you will get large delays.

thanks guys

I have the application form

There is a JP in the building here at work, will get her to sign, a photocopy or my license?

I have the purchase invoice

still waiting on the dereg doco from jspec. called them about it today when I realised I didn't have it yet

cheers and thanks for all the help

mark

but if I send it express on friday it would arrive on the weekend wouldn't it? before the november date, unless the department isnt open

might do that then. put it in the post on friday arvo

cheers

mark

No. Mail is not delivered over the weekend (although it is transported apparently).

LW.

include a express envolope with your application addressed back to you... May speed it up aswell!!

i didnt do it but i should of... no news as yet aswell ppl they said if it doesnt arrive this week put a complaint form in and they will get it chased up! will be somthing like 8 weeks on monday!

A utter joke!

yayyyyyyyyy!!

I faxed my signed, black and white licence and all my documents on the 1st of Sept.

Just received import approval in the mail :D

now lets just hope it gets on the boat at the end of the month :|

I have import approval envy :)

It's a great feeling once you've got it in your hand, hope yours is not too far away.

My car went on the boat last Saturday, should be here in a couple of weeks - or that was the plan, haven't heard otherwise. Just got to get the B/L now.

It's a great feeling once you've got it in your hand, hope yours is not too far away.

My car went on the boat last Saturday, should be here in a couple of weeks - or that was the plan, haven't heard otherwise.  Just got to get the B/L now.

2 months+ :boohoo: (december build)

I just hope it arrives before I leave for Japan in january so I can organise all the shipping etc before I leave.

Richard

me too richard, import approval envy

mines a November build. its creeping up slowly now, and I finally have all the paperwork ready to go. just a month wait.

wish you guys the best of luck with everything going smoothly now

mark

Awesome! now I have build month envy :D You lucky devil, with luck on your side you may just be able to have your car ready for christmas :)

Richard

Broker has confirmed that my car is 'on the boat', should be here in 2 weeks :headspin:

OohArrGTR: So DOTARS is saying your approval has definately been sent ?? In that case they probably have and it becomes an AusPost issue, but I would (nicely) ask DOTARS to confirm in writing (e-mail at least) that it was sent and the date of approval. Also ask if they can send a duplicate as the original may have been lost in the mail (it happens).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...